Goodbye for Now, but Not for Long, Insha'Allah

  

 

It is always so difficult to leave Maison de la Gare. Yes, progress has been made, supplies were delivered, issues were resolved, children have been registered in school, 8 more kids are registered at the dojo, karate seems locked-down and a future karate volunteer trip is fleshed-out, the medical report was completed, articles were written. Dad has slogged through his own long list of objectives as well - sleep is so over-rated, after all. But, despite the satisfaction of accomplishment, It tears at my heart to walk down the alley away from the centre. I can never be sure if I will see these boys again. 

 

 

The lives the talibes lead are so unpredictable. They have so little control over their own destinies and are at the mercy of the whims of their marabouts. Kids who have been attending classes at Maison de la Gare, learning to read and write, who feel secure in knowing the staff truly care about and watch over them, could disappear without warning. Marabouts can move an entire daara of kids to a remote location to work their fields as a convenient source of slave labour. Or, children could be arbitrarily barred from Maison de la Gare if a favour for a marabout's personal gain was asked of the center but refused. Or, a child suffering intolerable abuse at his daara could silently vanish and become a runaway, alone and vulnerable on the streets. On my last visit I was horrified to learn a group of 12 children from one daara who had passionately participated in the karate program were barred from returning to the centre by their marabout. The marabout had attacked one boy to punish him for some "transgression"  (an unfortunately common occurrence) and the boy had defended himself with the skill of a martial artist. Only by squashing the hope and the budding karate talent of these boys did the marabout feel able to keep them under his boot.

 

On this visit I was distressed to discover one of my dear teenage talibe friends is seriously considering leaving Senegal to try to make his way across the desert to Libya, and then onto a migrant boat, and then to Europe in search of a better future. He has heard it is possible to get an education in Europe. He has identity papers back in The Gambia, so he could attend high school there. But, he has an intolerable family situation at home to which he cannot bear to return. We had many discussions about the terrors and dangers and extortion of illegal migration to Europe. We also talked long and hard about the discrimination and challenges that await at the other end if the journey were successful. I think, I hope he has changed his mind. Education is his goal. Issa Kouyate could help him find a way to return then get by in The Gambia while continuing his education. If he can finish high school with honours ( which I have no doubt this very intelligent, ambitious boy could do), then a world of possibility could lie at his feet. I hope I get the chance to try to find my friend a scholarship to attend university some day.

Another dear friend my son Robbie's age was back in Saint Louis in search of work. Amadou Diao had previously been sent back by Maison de la Gare to his home in the Casamence to continue with his formal education. But, apparently he has no papers - a ridiculously common situation in Senegal when papers must be obtained for a fee within days of birth, regardless of the remoteness of one's birthplace - and thus he has very little chance of being registered in the public school system without resorting to bribery. This very intelligent boy had given up on school. But, after many hours of our discussions about the importance of eduction as the key to nearly everything, Amadou Diao also changed his mind. This Monday, with support from Maison de la Gare, he got on a bus back to his home town, school fees in hand and schoolbag on his back, to try to begin again with the new school  year this Wednesday. I cannot help but worry for my young friend, at this moment alone on a journey of possibly days, headed to an unknown future with little more than his school fees in his pocket and hope in his heart. I cannot help but imagine my own 14 year old on such a journey, alone. If Amadou Diao is successful, I may never see him again. But, it is certain I will never forget him.

 

Another friend, a talibe with amazing passion and skill for karate, Ismaila, had been sent off to help build a house for his marabout last year. Karate, which Ismaila lived for, was stopped in its tracks. But, I was delighted to learn Ismaila will soon be back to Saint Louis. The word is around that he is on his way. I have no doubt he will be back at Maison de la Gare and back at the dojo as soon as he returns. I anxiously await my next chance to see Ismaila again, back on his way to earning his blue belt in karate.

 

Many other talibe faces continue to reappear year after year. They show up for games, they can be found in the library, or arrive just in time for a meal, they wander into class, or limp into the health climic. They lounge in the shade of the garden, and watch movies in the computer room. Some have fallen in love with karate. As long as they continue to visit Maison de la Gare, these boys will know that someone cares for them. And, hope will remain alive.

 

 

As my flight leaves Dakar behind and the ocean passes underneath I can still hear the echo of the beautiful voices calling to me: "Sonia", "Hey! le Canada!", "Sonia-Karate", "Robbie?", "Rowan?". I hang onto the promise offered by Mamadou taking my left hand with his left instead of the usual right, signifying we shall meet again, God willing. I  will be back, insha'Allah.

 

Souleymane - A Child at Heart Becomes a Leader of Children

 

During this visit to Senegal I have been lucky to spend much time with Souleymane. He has taught karate classes with me at the centre. He has helped me orient more talibes into the Maison de la Gare karate program. We have played Monopoly Deal and spent time just hanging out. This week my Facebook account was disabled without cause or warning. Facebook has been an important means of communication while I am in Africa - a link to home as well as to Senegalese friends. Souleymane's always cheerful attitude and positive and playful disposition has helped remind me that it is good to just be present, and for a few days not to worry about my links to the outside world.The following history about Souleymane is from an article I wrote to be published on the Maison de la Gare Global Giving web page, and on Maison de la Gare's own web site, www.mdgsl.com later this year. Enjoy...

 

 

Souleymane first arrived at Maison de la Gare in 2010 when he was about 14 years old.  After receiving help from Maison de la Gare when he was sick, he became a familiar figure at the centre. It soon became apparent that Souleymane, sent from his home in The Gambia to a marabout and forced to beg for quotas of money at an early age, had been cheated of his childhood. At Maison de la Gare he made up for lost time. As a teenager, he learned to play, And, he discovered education. Now, as an older talibe in transition with responsibilities at the centre, and freed from his marabout, Souleymane is helping other talibes find their ways to better lives.

Souleymane had initially heard about the centre by word of mouth from other talibes. He would appear from time to time for food and respite from his daily begging. He was also curious about the classes. Then, in 2011 Souleymane began to have trouble in his daara. He became sick and his marabout failed to provide any care. Maison de la Gare took responsibility for his healthcare and Souleymane was hospitalized until he was well again. He was required to submit 600 CFA of begging proceeds  (about $US1) every day to his marabout. Even when he was in hospital, his daily quota accumulated. Maison de la Gare intervened to assist Souleymane through these troubles.

Once Souleymane's health was restored, he began to attend classes at Maison de la Gare on a regular basis. It was his hope to be able to go to school some day.

 

Even as a teenager, Souleymane had the heart of a child. At a series of celebrations organized for talibes at the centre, Souleymane spent hours colouring and drawing, alongside younger children half his age.  As I observed how this teenager was captivated by drawing in a colouring book, it broke my heart to realize this could only mean Souleymane was experiencing childhood for the first time. He would spend as much time as possible participating in every game, always with the younger 

 

kids. He loved the sack races, and learning to skip rope. The opportunity to play the djembe drums also captured his imagination. Souleymane loves a good joke and he is always quick to tease. Wherever there is fun, to this day Souleymane is sure to be on the scene. 

 

In 2015 when my son, then 13 year old Robbie, a karate black belt, arrived from Canada to help begin a karate program at Maison de la Gare, Souleymane was interested right away. Robbie and Souleymane became close friends. Robbie taught him to love karate, and Souleymane taught Robbie to play marbles and to make a perfect pot of attaya. 

 

 

Souleymane continued to study karate at the centre, and at the dojo Sor-karate. As his study of the sport progressed, his discipline and sense of responsibility increased. There was a time when Souleymane may have been as likely to be found napping behind a market stall, as to be at class on time. 

 

But now, the discipline of karate and the pride in responsibility seem to have had a transformative effect.  Souleymane leads the warm up for the karate class at the centre each week, and trains at the dojo most nights. He helps orient the newly registered "dojo talibes" into the karate program, ensuring they are on time. And, he helps the kids just starting karate to find a gi that fits. He now also competes in kata and combat for his dojo. Souleymane has found passion and leadership in karate.

 

As Souleymane transitions out of the talibe life, he continues to work with Maison de la Gare, not only leading karate classes, but working to support the hygiene and health care project. Most days he leads the talibes in brushing their teeth. And he assists with many other projects. Souleymane also leads a group of four other talibes in cultivating a garden plot of okra at Maison de la Gare's  cultivation lands. This week he proudly harvested the first crop ever. Meanwhile, Souleymane still yearns for an education, attending Maison de la Gare classes faithfully. And if fun is afoot, Souleymane will surely not be far away.

 

Maison de la Gare in Full Swing

A week has passed since I left Canada. Yet, it seems there is still so much to do: A report to complete on the medications we brought on our last visit (due to temporary confiscation by local customs officials the medications arrived after my departure), photos to take of the kids responsible for tending the garden plot at Bango, organizing a karate volunteer group trip for next year, a few more articles to write for the Global Giving and Maison de la Gare websites, and a meeting with Master Ignate Ba about advancing the karate program. This list pales compared to my father's own to-do list of reorganizing budgets and bank accounts, updating the accounting,  preparing and organizing the board meeting, and working with MDG staff to ensure the work being done relates properly to the budget so that grants can be renewed and objectives fulfilled.

 

At the centre, the list of activities for the talibes to enjoy and benefit from continues to expand. Since the month of May, Lala Sene, a member of the female Senegalese National soccer team has been volunteering with the talibes every Thursday afternoon - a great supplement to the regular tournaments. She organizes soccer games and coaches them to their full potential. Thank goodness my sister Karen sent a new soccer ball with me for the talibes. They have lost the others over the wall - the price to pay for over enthusiastic kicking.

 

The karate program is strong and growing, only limited by the number of available uniforms and dojo registration sponsorships. Young kids and older teenagers alike present themselves asking for karate. But, it is the teenagers who seem to feel the passion and the possibility. For them, registration at the dojo levels any discrimination they may experience in their day to day lives. Here, only skill, earned by perseverance and discipline matter. Every person who puts on a Gi has the same opportunity in the dojo. After three days of participating in the morning karate classes, and registering 8 more kids at the dojo, I am becoming known on the streets of Saint Louis as Sonia-karate. But I know, they would still rather have Robbie training with them.

 

The classes were very full this week. Abdou Soumare works with the youngest kids every morning, leading educational games, showing educational videos, and reading with the kids. He also had an overflowing class in the afternoon. Aida's class of older kids was also full of students who may imagine education could be a key to better times. 

 

 

Arouna is getting help from a past professor who agreed to intervene with authorities to help him obtain identification papers. If all goes according to plan, he will begin high school next week! This professor is prepared to help another 10 MDG talibes without papers find places in the public school system as well. For those fortunates the dream of education is a step closer now.

We have learned there will be a ronde de nuit Sunday night. Will we join them late at night, in search of runaway talibes living on the street? Maybe it will depend on how far we have worked through our lists. I have done this ronde de nuit a few times. It is never easy to come face to face wth the the reality of such young kids alone and vulnerable,  knowing they feel safer exposed to the dangers of the streets than in their daaras. Thank God Maison de la Gare, at least, is there for them. The staff at our Dortoir d'Urgence will be ready and waiting to receive the runaways and, eventually, hopefully, escort them home.

 

I have tried to spend as much time as possible with the kids. This is what I love to do most when I am here, and what I know my Dad longs also to do, if only he ever had enough time.  After karate, and soccer, as kids lounge in the shade of the garden mid-day, I pull out the Monopoly Deal cards (also thanks to Karen). Or, we discuss the importance of education and the challenges of being talibes. Or, religion and spirituality. Or, why people in the world choose to do right and wrong. Or, how they will try to improve Senegal when they are older. Or, we just listen to music. One thing these kids don't do is really complain, other than the occasional admittance "oui, c'est dur" . Even after another night of heavy thunderstorms and wind, they comment on the beautiful morning sun, not on the deluge that stole their sleep the night before. My friend Tijan noted "morning is a wonderful blessing, either sunny 

 

or stormy. It stands for hope...giving us another start of what we call life". For the talibes, the storm is just a normal part of life, to be accepted along with forced begging and life in the daaras. But, the morning and new day are a gift from God, to be appreciated, something for which to be thankful. And, so is Maison de la Gare.

 

Karate Still Kicking at Maison de la Gare

 

 

Knowing this day there would be a karate class at the centre, I was apprehensive because it is so hot and humid. I don't do well in the heat. But I DO do well with inspiration. So, when the talibes put on their gi's so did I. Apparently the word got around that I would be helping with karate at the centre, and many extra talibes gathered along the walls to watch. There was much giggling and pointing when ever I kiayed. 

Two new students joined the morning class. They had been waiting to join since my previous visit, but none of the unclaimed  gi's at Maison de la Gare fit them. Happily, I had two more perfect for the job in my luggage.

 

Souleymane led the warm up before the Sensei from Sor-karate took over. Then, at the end of class Souleymane and I demonstrated a few intermediate katas for the class, to the delight of the little fan club. When my son, Robbie first began the karate program at Maison de la Gare, 18 months ago, Souleymane was shy but curious about this karate business. He and Robbie became great friends, and Robbie shared with Souleymane his love of karate. Today, Souleymane is a leader of the MDG karate program and he is competing for the Sor-karate dojo where 27 talibes are now registered. He warms up the class at the centre with confidence and skill. As we prepare to demonstrate his tournament kata together, his shyness returns, only to be replaced by pride as we complete the kata, nicely in sync. Robbie would also be proud to see this.

 

Souleymane helped me make a list of the morning students he felt were ready for the dojo, and who wanted to join, just as Robbie did a year ago. Many had been hopefully waiting since my previous visit for their chance to become a "dojo talibe".

 

As we gathered to walk to the dojo for the evening class, it became apparent the evening meal at Maison de la Gare would not be ready in time for the kids who needed to arrive early to be registered. I could see the concern build as stomachs growled, then the resolution settle in that this chance at becoming part of something wonderful would not be missed. So, off my Dad and I went with Souleymane, leading 5 hungry talibes. Souleymane helped get the new kids oriented at the dojo, then they lined up nervously for registration. I guaranteed payment of their fees, and for two others who could not come tonight,  knowing generous karate families back home at my own dojo would be willing to help.

 

As we watched the class progress, Dad was astonished at the dedication, commitment and skill being displayed by some he had thought of until now as relaxed and, shall we say, less than diligent in many matters. Karate has transformed these kids. Or, more likely, it has brought out their best selves. They are developing an important and respected skill. They belong to something not many people are part of. They feel special, they feel the opportunity.  Another  thing that struck me as I watched, was the equality in the room. Talibes practiced along side kids from regular families, families who could afford these fees. Everyone wears the same uniform in the dojo. There are no begging street kids in this class, just martial artists.

 

No wonder kids who beg to survive are willing to forgo a certain meal for this. For them, karate is a chance at really living.

Education, the Key to Everything

 

My friend, Gna Gna has been close to talibes all her life. She grew up in Saint Louis. She has seen talibes begging on the streets as long as she can remember. She and her mother were a host family to my sister Lisa when she volunteered in Saint Louis years ago. Gna Gna and my daughter, Rowan have become friends over the years we have been volunteering here. Rowan has visited Gna Gna's school.

Gna Gna's family has long been a neighbour to Issa Kouyate, President of Maison de la Gare, watching him shelter hundreds of runaway talibes rescued from the streets in his own home over the years. Over long association with Issa, Maison de la Gare, and our family,  Gna Gna's family has become sensitized to the predicament and the potential of the talibes. They can now see these children through wide open eyes. Her mother, affectionately known to us as Mama Touty, eager to help, devoted days to guiding Rowan and I through the market labyrinths of Saint Louis as we furnished the newly built dortoir d'urgence at the Maison de la Gare Centre.

 

Gna Gna has graduated from high school and is preparing to continue to University. She wants to study architecture, and understands the importance of education. She knows it is a key to the doors of the world. And, she has learned that talibes are children of the world, in need of a helping hand to lead them to these doors.

Gna Gna presented herself at Maison de la Gare this morning, eager to offer herself as a part of a solution, as a local volunteer. With the help of staff member, Abdou Soumaree, Gna Gna gathers the talibes into the library. She begins by explaining, in Wolof to ensure they fully understand, the importance of education. She reminds them of Arouna Kande and his success as a talibe  who advanced through the public school system against all odds to earn his education. The talibe nod knowingly, appreciatively. Arouna is an example, a hero to these children. Then Gna Gna begins her French lesson.

 The children each have the opportunity to spell out their own names on a tablet. They are eager, and proud to share their accomplishments. As the lesson progresses, the crowd of talibes in the library grows, despite the fact that this is their free play time. They want to learn. They want to be like Arouna. Gna Gna explains vowels. She explains the importance of being able to read and write French in Senegal. The children agree. The crowd expands again. There is no more room in the library, so the talibes fill the doorway, leaning in for learning.

 

The lesson is a great success, in learning and in giving hope. Gna Gna will be back to give a new lesson each day. To encourage the talibes to be here again tomorrow, she finishes with "We can do this! We are a team!" The children enthusiastically agree.  

As I watched Gna Gna teach the class so competently, inspiring begging street children to imagine their limitless possibilities, I was struck with a sense that I was witnessing a massive leap forward. Local, young Senegalese are taking responsibility to make the change that is needed in this country. A new generation is seeing things differently. I sense the rumblings of an avalanche of change that may be on its way.

Later, after Gna Gna has left, I hear several voices practicing vowels. And, many letters have been traced in the sand by small fingers and sticks. Gna Gna has inspired these kids to want to learn. 

Later in the afternoon the computer room is packed with kids playing math computer games. 9 children at one computer collaborate to figure out the answer to 15 + 3 = . Hope for a better future persists at Maison de la Gare.

  

Following our discussions about the importance of education yesterday Arouna has met with a professor at his prospective High School. He says he will help Arouna find a way to continue learning, auditing classes, so as not to fall behind while he is waiting for a resolution to his lack of documents. And, Amadou Diao, too, has declared he will go back to Kolda to try to start school again. Maison de la Gare will try to help him sort out his lack of documents as well. 

Change, indeed. Insha'Allah.

 

Down the Alley and Through the Gates

 

Our first full day in Saint Louis. A morning stop at the Cyber Cafe to print some budgeting papers Dad spent the night before perfecting, then off to the centre! 

As we walk down the alley that leads to Maison de la Gare, the anticipation builds. The gate swings open, the familiar creaky hinge singing its greeting, and we step through to the oasis of peace, happiness and hope that is Maison de la Gare. 

 

"Sonia!", "de retour", "Robbie???", "Rowan?", "et Papa?" followed by a happy and knowing nod as I indicate Dad has already ducked into the office to get to work with staff on the budget thoughts we have been working on.

Souleymane and Amadou Diao are concerned that Robbie did not come with us. Several of Robbie's karate-talibe-tykes have tapped on my shoulder and demanded I produce Robbie. They asked for him several times, so I think they are hoping I will whip him out of my backpack when they are not looking. However, when I explain that Robbie needs to train for the WKC World Karate Championships coming up in November, they seem somewhat understanding. They don't really get it when I explain he can't miss too much school. But they do appreciate the karate pictures.

 

No one can understand why Rowan is not with us. Kalidou,  Mamadou, and Arouna are missing her, as are many others. I explain she is at university, studying international development. They are impressed, but not surprised. They agree it is important she attend to her studies so she can change things. They seem to have no doubt that she will, indeed, set the wrongs of the world to rights.

We begin a discussion about school. Amadou Diao is a talibe who had returned to his village to attend school. He cannot continue further with his education until someone figures out how to produce identity papers that do not exist. Arouna is facing the same issue. He struggled for years, first in Maison de la Gare classes, then in the public school system. He repeated many years, learning with students younger than himself, all while needing to meet the begging quota of his marabout. Arouna is not permitted to write his exams for his diploma because he also is without papers. He has been trying for years to obtain them so he can continue with the education he fought tooth and nail to earn to this point. He has begged his marabout to release the original birth certificate that might be Arouna's ticket but would relinquish the marabout's control of Arouna, to no avail. He has made 2 trips to his home province of Kolda in search of solutions. Apparently death certificates for his parents are required, but do not exist. And, the photocopy his previous school took of his documents is not acceptable to authorities at this time. Only an original will do. I have been told that lack of documents afflicts at least a million Senegalese, keeping them from their rights to an education (due to an unrealistic rule to obtain a birth certificate within days of birth, and death certificates within a few days also, apparently. Miss the deadline, too bad, so sad). I cannot imagine the frustration of a teenager determined to better himself with education so he can help advance his country, when he comes up against such administrative barriers of his own country's making, causing delays of years, seemingly designed to turn hope to dust. But, amazingly, Arouna does not seem to have lost hope. He perseveres in his plans to better himself and his country. And for now, he bides his time, trusting Issa, the president of Maison de la Gare, will help him find a way forward.

 

I am happy to see Tidjan again. He has been away from home, the Gambia for 8 years. He misses his mother. He is very happy to receive the Koran Arab/ English translation I brought him. He is working hard to learn English and also study the Koran. Many others are equally fascinated as the precious book is passed around. Our group moves on to a discussion of the Koran, religion and how similar our different religions are, when you get to the bottom of it. They love to hear me translate the prayers they say by rote, so they can understand. And, they exclaim and agree how we are all the same, even believing in and loving the same God. It is so basic, so simple. What is wrong with the world that it cannot be this way once childhood is left behind?!

Mamadou gives me a tour of the garden, robust with fruit after the rainy season. This year the grape vines produced a crop of grapes for the first time, doubling their duty of giving shade over the arbour terrasse. 

 

Young talibes are enjoying the library, reminding me of the love of books of my own kids at that age, when they also enjoyed many of their reads upside-down.

 

In the afternoon I hop on a city bus with Souleymane, Kalidou and Issa Ba, to the Maison de la Gare cultivation lands at Bango. Mamadou meets us there. No one remembers the key. Souleymane hauls himself over the gate to let us in and we spend a few hours giving the plants their afternoon soaking. This close to the equator night descends quickly. It is dark for the walk back to the centre from the bus stop.

 I return to the centre too late for classes and distribution of dinner to the talibes. Souleymane is late too, grabbing his karate gi to dash off to the dojo for self defence class tonight (although honestly, it is difficult to imagine Souleymane hurrying for anything). Fortunately, there is still tomorrow...

 

 

Welcome The African Sun...or Rain

 

How many times have I thought, or written "on my way, again..." ? One might think I would get used to the sight of the African continent coming into view out the airplane window. Or, the warm, heavy, fragrant air enveloping me as I step off the plane. Or, the chaotic, entrepreneurial dance for attention of the vendors and beggars outside the airport. Or, the vibrant, yet ancient passing Sub-Saharan landscape as we are driven to Saint Louis. Or, the genuinely delighted greeting of our friends at Maison Rose as our car pulls up. Or, the feeling that we are lucky to be part of something really special as we enter the gates of Maison the la Gare. But, it always feels new and special.

 

This trip is new in a different way, however. This time I am travelling to Senegal during the rainy season for the first time. Well, the tail end of it. The Sub-Saharan plains are greener than I knew was possible. The tree in our Hotel courtyard is blooming!! When I checked the weather forecast, compliments of my iphone, I was surprised to see three days of thunderclouds for Dakar, and one for Saint Louis. But, the temperature should be between 32 and 36 degrees everyday, as always.  This is malaria season. I packed my raincoat, bug-net, and Malarone medication. But I forgot my bug spray. That is what I get for packing late, the night before I leave. Good thing Dad remembered his.

 

It has been a few years since I made this trip without at least one of my kids accompanying me. This time, it will be as I first began my travels to Senegal, just me and my Dad. I look forward to working on fulfilling our objectives for this trip together. We have settled into an efficient rythm over our years of working together to help fulfill the vision of Maison de la Gare. With only two baggage allowances we had to pack carefully: books for the library, karate gis, belts and equipment for the talibe karate-kids, a few new computers - we can take one in each of our carry-on's, and the candy I can't resist packing for the kids.

We are, indeed, on our way, again...

 

 

Getting Ready to Board, Remembering Why I Do This

 

As soon as I arrived at the narrow, unmarked alley in the Sor district of Saint Louis, Senegal, leading to the Maison de la Gare Welcome Centre, I heard my name being called and spotted six familiar faces. Small, barefoot, filthy, delightful, smiling street boys. The clamour and dusty chaos of the busy street receded as each child rushed forward for a proper hand clasp greeting.  Several repeated my name, wanting to ensure I knew that they know me. Their welcoming smiles grew bigger when i began to pass out candy and the group of six instantly, miraculously became a demanding horde of twenty. When will I learn? Some of the original six shook their heads at me knowingly. They accompanied me down the alley, leading me by the hand, touching my arm, sneaking more shy smiles, and repeating their own names, anxious to confirm that I also knew them.

Upon entering the sanctuary of Maison de la Gare, all I saw were smiles and all we felt was welcome. "Sonia!" "de retourn!" "Combien de temps cette fois?" "Et la famille?" "Et Robbie cette fois?" "Rowan?". It takes hours to greet everyone properly, re-confirm their understanding of their importance to me and mine to them. To be updated on recent illnesses, abuses and triumphs.

The progress at the centre is encouraging.  The coconut trees have finally taken hold, no longer in danger of succumbing to stray soccer balls or wrestling children. The papayas have survived the season of wind and sandstorms to stand tall and bear fruit. A new nurse has been hired for the medical infirmary. She will help organize the medications we brought to stock the clinic. I learn that a teacher's own attendance has become sporadic again, a recurring and challenging cultural issue. I see that more encouragement is called for. The children attend class, play games, tend the garden, wash clothes, read in the library, follow their interests and friends on Facebook at the computer centre, and karate classes continue. Soulaymane, who I love as family, proudly announces his orange belt and his commencement of sparring competition. Arouna, another I love as my own, updates me on the progress of his hard earned education. He is finally attending high school, but although freed from forced begging, still has to deal with the domination and interference of his marabout. Arouna dreams about university, of teaching and writing, anxious to influence his own change in this place. I dream about finding him a scholarship to help make it happen.

The very first time I made this journey with my father in 2010, I had no idea what to expect. I had always longed to step outside my comfort zone to give back to those without any resources to help themselves. Thanks to my father's invitation to join him on his third trip to volunteer, I was getting to do the chance to do just that. We were flying toward a level of poverty and human rights abuse beyond my experience or comprehension. How could I, a person who leads people to take control of their money in support of life objectives have anything to offer those without a penny in the world or objectives other than survival? 

I quickly fell in love with these children, their beauty, resilience, and humour, all in the face of unimaginably intolerable circumstances. They are known as talibes. There are tens of thousands of them in Senegal, all boys. They are supposed to be studying the Quran, but instead are forced to beg for quotas of money for their marabout's. Often severely abused, neglected by distant families, talibes beg for up to ten hours a day. Human Rights Watch and the United Nations refer to the talibes as modern day slaves. The government and society in general turn a blind eye. Someone else is always to blame: The Government, Parents, the Marabouts, the police who fail to enforce the law. No one but Maison de la Gare seems willing to take responsibility for these innocents. 

The first time I encountered a talibe child the age of my own son and nephews, I had an overwhelming sense that but for the grace of God, or an accident of birth, these could be my own children. And, if I could help them, I knew that I must. What makes me, or any of us in the West, any more deserving of prosperity, health, security, opportunity, and hope than these children who have perpetrated nothing to earn their circumstances but be born in this time and place. 

Since that first visit I have returned a dozen times to continue to work with Maison de la Gare, often with my father, to help build the centre according to founder, Issa Kouyate's vision, and do what I can to help the Senegalese staff help the children to maintain hope and find a way to a better life. Over the years at Maison de la Gare I have taught the children English, French and karate. I have been a project manager and a tour guide. I have tended wounds and de-wormed kids in the daaras and in the health clinic. I have been a gardener, a painter, a labourer, a mentor and a mother and a friend. My family's charitable foundation and my Dad's grant writing patience facilitates the funding of much of the progress here, funded with the help of many sympathetic contributors. All of the investment companies I work with have contributed. My Dad manages the books and maintains the website that helps fuel more donations and a thriving international volunteer program, www.mdgsl.com, as well as the Maison de la Gare www.globalgiving.com web page. We both write regular articles to keep the donations flowing. And, all the while, these children have truly become a second family to us.

Three years ago my then 14 year old daughter, Rowan, accompanied me to Senegal for the first of five times (so far). She connected with the talibes in a manner that only a young person could do. Rowan saw the talibes as equals, with the same unlimited potential that she knows herself to have, She saw them in a way they likely had never seen themselves, never considering potential limitations of kids who could barely read or write or had ever seen a computer. Rowan helped establish email accounts for the talibes of Maison de la Gare. She knew that a connection with the outside world and with herself back in Canada, the possibility of maintaining long term links with transitory international volunteers, regular exposure to different world views, and the acquisition of skills valued by modern society could benefit the talibes immeasurably. These are surely now the most on-line-savvy begging street kids in Africa.

A year ago, my husband, Robin and my son Robbie joined Rowan and I on their first visit to volunteer with Maison de la Gare. Then 13 year old Robbie, like Rowan before him, envisioned possibilities for the talibes that most adults could not have conceived of. Appreciating the advantages his sport of karate has to offer the talibes: discipline, confidence, self defence skills, and the sense of belonging to something special, Robbie convinced us to facilitate a karate program for the talibes of Maison de la Gare. Today, the pride the boys take in their white gi's and belts, donated from Canadian dojos, is evident. During Robbie's second visit with me last December, we were invited to watch some Maison de la Gare talibes earn higher belts. Their confidence was palpable, their pride in achievement was irrepressible. Robbie with his black belt, who is of an age with many of them, is an example and helps to spread the belief that anything is, indeed, possible. Even for talibes.

Perhaps the most impact we have on the children of Maison de la Gare lies simply in our example, and our interest. Maison de la Gare tries to teach them they are worthy of so much more. The simple presence of international volunteers underscores this truth. And, the presence of children competently volunteering demonstrates to the talibes how powerful kids can be.

My family and I ventured to Africa in search of giving. And, I know we did. I know it for the progress I see: the smiles on the faces, the amputations averted thanks to antibiotics, the enrolments in school, the philosophical conversations started about society's role in forced begging, the pride in achievement, the white karate belts transforming to coloured belts, the late night emails received and Facebook chats I am invited to every time I am on-line. But what we receive is far greater. Interacting with these kids not only inspires me that absolutely anything is possible,  it gives me a sense of being completely present and alive. It has transformed my and my children's paradigms. No one does this work in order to receive. But, it is inevitable, as anyone who gives knows.

A year ago I began this blog to chronicle my family's experiences in Senegal. It is updated whenever I volunteer in Africa. As uncomfortable as I am when in the public eye, I decided to write about the talibes and my experience with them, not only to raise awareness about forced begging and direct potential donors to a worthy cause, but as encouragement, to demonstrate that anyone can do this type of work. I do not lead a life full of spare time. My business is rewarding and demanding. Our family's activities seem to suck up every non-work Canadian minute, as I am sure it does for most families.  And, I have no skills relevant to international volunteering, other than some pretty rough French, an open heart and the desire to make a difference for those who cannot do it for themselves. 

Now, as I sit in the airport with my Dad, preparing to board our next flight to Dakar, we are a little more prepared than the first time. But, we are feeling just as much anticipation for this next adventure to begin.

Three Girls at Maison de la Gare

In March of this year I had the wonderful experience of returning to Maison de la Gare with my daughter, Rowan, my niece, Alicia, and another student from Rowan's school, Katherine. Including Katherine's dad, Martin and Alicia's mom, Karen, six of us volunteered together.

I was astonished observing the enthusiasm and caring of these three teenage girls shared with the talibe children of Saint Louis. The impact of their visit will long be felt by the begging street children of Maison de la Gare. And, I have no doubt that the three girls have, in turn, been permanently changed for the better.

A very special talibe boy, Arouna wrote about his perspectives on the visit.

Three Girls at Maison de la Gare article

Three Girls at Maison de la Gare

Arouna, talibé and Administrative Assistant at Maison de la Gare, reports on Canadian high school student teaching his fellow talibés

"Alicia, Katherine and Rowan are high school students from Ottawa, Canada. Alicia, 15, is a student at Glebe Collegiate while Katherine, aged 16, and Rowan, 17, are studying at Ashbury College. The three girls came to Senegal in March, specifically to Saint Louis to visit our center, Maison de la Gare.

The three girls travelled with Katherine's father Martin and Rowan's and Alicia's moms, Sonia and Karen. They spent nine days with us at Maison de la Gare, but they also visited the city of Saint Louis where they met the talibé children begging and even living in the streets. The talibés live in extremely difficult conditions, walking barefoot in the streets wearing only rags, trying to get what then must give to their marabouts. Most of these children are between 5 and 15 years of age. They come from poor families far from the city, from distant regions of Senegal and from neighbouring countries (Casamance, Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Mali, etc.). Instead of teaching the children the Koran or giving them a good education, the marabouts use them to enrich themselves. The talibés are forced to live in very marginal conditions like abandoned houses where access to water and electricity, and even food, is very limited. And the health of these talibé children is severely compromised.

The first days at Maison de la Gare were challenging for the Canadian girls. We saw the concern in their faces, reflecting their lack of understanding of the children's situation. They felt badly for the children. And they did not understand what people were saying in the context of African culture. Their objectives were to share some of their knowledge with the children and to contribute to development and to the fight against child abuse.

They began by animating games in the center's open courtyard, and this proved very successful as a way to establish good connections with the children. Their goodwill and their desire to contribute were very obvious to everyone. After three days at the center, the girls began to talk with the children about their living conditions and other aspects of their lives, with strong support from teacher Abdou Soumaré and some of the older talibés. They taught English classes to older talibé children. Karen and Sonia were always close at hand to guide them, while Martin played the role of a wise grandfather. Outside the classroom, the three girls regularly read books to the children in the courtyard and in the library. Like children everywhere, the talibés love stories and identify themselves with great enthusiasm with well-illustrated books. They always crowded around in large numbers when the girls were reading to them. Katherine was able to share a special skill, creating origami birds, and many children were fascinated by the magic of this art. And the three girls were able to teach children crammed into the library to sing "Happy Birthday" to Issa in English, to celebrate his birthday!

Despite the unthinkable conditions in which talibés live, these children always seem to have a ready smile and to be able to forget their life problems. They are very open to people who treat them with respect, and many of them rapidly became very attached to Rowan, Katherine and Alicia.

This visit to Maison de la Gare allowed Rowan, Katherine and Alicia to learn many things about the talibé children and Senegalese culture. They learned that there are thousands of young people who are suffering because of begging or poverty. This trip allowed them to understand better the complexity of what is happening in Senegal. To address this scourge, these young talibé children need help, protection and constant support in their fight against abuse. But they also need the support of centers such as Maison de la Gare so they can have a better future.

In conclusion, on behalf of all of the talibés and of Maison de la Gare, we thank you, Rowan, Katherine and Alicia, for this visit and for your commitment to the talibé children. We also express our thanks to Ashbury College in Ottawa which chose to give their students the opportunity to come to Senegal to visit us and to support us. And, finally, we call on everyone to join the fight against begging and against the abuse of talibé children, who are themselves the future.

Stop our brothers' begging."