Composed on the Paris-Dakar Rally Route. Written and Posted in Ottawa: Tourists again.

On the morning of our last full day in Saint Louis, the four of us took a calèche tour before heading to Maison de la Gare for our final goodbyes. Knowing what to expect from past experience in a calèche with Rowan, I warned the driver that Rowan would not tolerate it if he either whipped the horse or made it to canter on the paved roads. But, no need to have worried, this horse seemed unusually well treated by local standards.

Our Calèche

Saint Louis has a long and interesting history, defined for centuries by slavery, then by French colonization.  The ties to France still abound. French is spoken in schools and government. White baguettes are standard breakfast fare for everyone, including the talibés. The architecture and feeling of the city on the Island is very reminiscent of New Orleans, but older, charmingly shabbier, and everything is covered in a layer of sand dust. And, goats are everywhere. The island of Saint Louis is connected to the mainland by a 512 metre bridge spanning the Senegal River, le Pont Faidherbe, designed by the architect of the Eiffel Tower, and was a gift from France to Senegal.

As we drove over a second bridge to La Langue de Barbarie, a long spit of land, connected at one end

La Langue de Barbarie

to Mauritania, we truly entered another world. This is the world of fisher-families, a society apart from the rest of Saint Louis. Many people who live here may never cross the bridge to leave the small neighbourhood of Guet NDar. Every family here is dedicated to the work of ocean fishing. Men here have up to four wives and often over a dozen children, all dedicated to working to manage the catch. Children rarely go to school here.

Saint Louis is the city most in danger of global warming induced rising sea levels. And, Serious flooding is a chronic issue in the rainy season. For these reasons, the site of Maison de la Gare was built up many feet with gravel and sand before construction began. La Langue de Barbarie, right at the ocean's edge, and only a few feet above sea level, is the area most at risk. The occasional summer cyclone or heavy storm can be devastating here.

Guet Ndar typical street

The houses the fisher people live in are tiny, and in many cases, all family members do not fit in the house at any one time and they have to sleep in shifts. Nevertheless, families are relatively rich, due to the work of fishing. Every tiny house has several televisions, one for each wife, and antenas dominate the skyline. Most men own land away from the area. But, they are superstitious and rent out the large homes they build in the countryside, fearing that if they or their families move away from the tiny ancestral homes on La Langue de Barbarie, their good luck with fishing will be replaced by a curse. So, they stay.

Returning from Saint Louis to Dakar, we followed the route of the Paris - Dakar Rally, along the

Letting air out of tires for the beach drive

beach, in a four by four truck, baggage strapped in the back. I had not taken this route before, and I was astonished, along with the rest of my family, at the never-ending beach that borders the entire length of Senegal from Saint Louis to Dakar.  We drove, literally, on the beach. Our driver skillfully

avoided the pounding waves of the Atlantic while driving as close as possible to the water to benefit from the firmest and smoothest sand. The expansive white sand of the beach extended seemingly endlessly. The perfect surfing rollers to our right, forrest to our left, we encountered many horse drawn carts on our way, and the occasional truck avoiding the main highway. Several fishing communities dotted our route. Occasionally as fishing pirogues were  launching to sea and blocking our route, we had to temporarily navigate inland around the community to continue on our way.

About two hours into the drive we turned inland to Lampoul, an area of desert populated by

Lampoul

dromedaries. We stopped for lunch in a bedouin-style tent. We were scheduled to ride dromedaries before continuing on our way. However, the camel driver who was to prepare our mounts had not shown up that day. "C'est l'Afrique" was the explanation, along with a simple shrug. So, we drove back to the coast to continue to Dakar.

The incoming tide forced us off the beach a little before our destination of Dakar, and we passed by Lac Rose for a second time (the finish line of the Rally was at Lac Rose). The lake was brilliantly pink on this day, and piles of freshly collected salt were everywhere.

Lac Rose 

Driving through the countryside from the beach back to the highway presented yet another side of this part of Africa. Communities packed with children, running and playing in the streets, calling and waving to us as we passed: "toubab!", women in brightly coloured Senegalese dresses lounging at their market stalls waited for business, and as usual goats were everywhere. The closer we drew to Dakar, the more dense the crowds of people and market stalls became. The noises and activity grew more intense and the colours even brighter. Fewer horse carts, more cars.

Later, as our plane left the ground, and Africa, a part of our hearts remained behind, connected forevermore to the talibés of Senegal and this land.

"Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere. We are caught in an inextricable network of mutuality, tied in a single garment of destiny. Whatever affects one directly, affects all indirectly."
           - Martin Luther King Jr.

On Our Way Home

Because my family is with me already, leaving Senegal is just bitter, without the usual sweet. Our good byes to our talibé friends at Maison de la Gare were as difficult as always. Their lives can change so much in the time between my visits.

Souleymane may be able to get a final release from his marabout, but it could involve returning to his

Souleymane and Robbie

village in The Gambia for a short time. Then, will he have a family to welcome him there or not? Will he return to Saint Louis to begin his formal education, planned to begin in September? Or, is there a chance for education for him in The Gambia? Others, even without families, may need to return to villages in Cassamance or even in other countries, where they were originally trafficked from so long ago, to be officially freed from marabouts, despite being old enough that the official guardianship should be over. (Leaving the marabout and the exploitation of the daara is political, and complicated.) But, there is civil unrest in Cassamance. Will they be safe? Thanks to Rowan having introduced the talibés to email and facebook, we can keep track of each other to a certain extent. Ibrahima is a little, super intelligent talibé who loves the karate classes and shows wonderful

Robbie and Ibrahima

potential. Last time I was here, he had not been coming around to Maison de la Gare, his marabout seemed not to be permitting it. We saw him on the streets, looking downtrodden and filthy. But now, proud of his gi, and seeing an opportunity with karate, he is back. Will he keep coming to Maison de la Gare? The teachers will encourage him to French classes. Will he be be a candidate to be registered in the formal school system? Will Djibe continue with karate? He is a natural with the bo staff, but then hung back from lessons later in the week, seemingly a bit jealous of Robbie's budding relationship with Souleymane. It is not easy leaving these children behind. But, we do know Issa and the Maison de la Gare Team will do what they can, watch over them.

Robbie will particularly miss Souleymane. They have become close friends since Robbie took him under his wing, pulling him aside for some special karate classes, and honouring him with a red gi to

Robbie and Souleymane, playing marbles

mark him as a helper for karate Big Classes. Souleymane taught Robbie to make and properly serve ataya, and to play marbles. They came up with a special handshake. Robbie gave him sunglasses and Souleymane gave Robbie his marbles. Although Souleymane is nearly an adult, he has a child's heart. A few years ago, during a day of celebrations at the centre, with games and colouring, I found Souleymane in a classroom with four and five year olds, colouring dinosaurs, for hours. He joined in every game, wheelbarrow races, blind mans's bluff, skipping rope. I think he never before had the opportunity of a childhood, and makes up for that when he can. Souleymane also loves karate, and has a natural talent. His lack of awareness of time passing will surely be helped by karate classes.

Robbie also has become close with Mamadou, as has Robin. Mamadou is loving the karate too, giving every workout everything he has. His big smile seemed permanently fixed in place this week. Robin and Mamadou spent many hours together, shopping for supplies and working in the garden.

Robin and Mamadou

Robin tried to explain how the trees and vines must be pruned, showed him now. And, Robin helped Mamadou with watering and garden maintenance. Many times during the week I would leave a karate class and wonder where Robin was, to be told he was off at the market with Mamadou again. Robin seemed surprisingly comfortable here. He appreciated the natural rhythm of the traffic and the pace, the unspoken rules of courtesy and logic that seem universally honoured, in a way I had not previously perceived.

Rowan is beloved of all the talibés. They gather round her, hoping to be shown how to make friendship bracelets, or to just hang out. Rowan and Arouna have a strong friendship. Arouna is

seventeen, and he has been registered in the formal school system for years, currently in the quartieme, the year before high school. He is a diligent student, never faltering from his studies despite years of exploitation and forced begging. I remember times when he stayed up in his daara,

Rowan and Arouna

past midnight, and did homework by the light of the moon. Maison de la Gare's support has been life changing for Arouna. He is from Cassamance, and both his parents are deceased. He is free of his marabout, thankfully. His three adored younger sisters, still in Cassamance, are waiting for him to find success, so he can help them to a better life too. Rowan and Arouna worry about each other when Rowan is in Canada, and exchange electronic communications frequently. Rowan accompanied Arouna to school one day this week, as she did once before. They collaborated on an article about the new karate program and what it means for Maison de la Gare, Rowan writing the English version, and Arouna writing the French, while exchanging thoughts and ideas to ensure they wrote similar articles. Rowan, in particular, can hardly bare to leave Saint Louis when the time comes to go.

We enjoyed much hospitality while in Saint Louis. We did not have time to accept all of our invitations. We did enjoy a traditional senegalese dinner with our friend, Ami, her daughter and

Dinner at Ami's house

grandaughter, at their home. Ami works hard selling bracelets to tourists to support her entire family. And, there are very few tourists since the fear of Ebola began to scare people away. Thank goodness Senegal remains free of Ebola. The economy here is challenged enough. We brought a chocolate cake from a local French bakery to present to Ami's mother. I have never before seen her move from her place by the front door. But, instead of sharing the cake with the family, she took it to another room and ate the entire thing herself!?! It was a big cake. We hope she is alright. Bouri, a teacher at Maison de la Gare and the mother of my godchild, Mouhamed, and her family of seven came to our hotel with a Senegalese chicken dinner her daughter cooked, to eat together. Other invitations will have to wait until another time.

Bouri and her family prepared a meal to share with us

As usual, we were showered with gifts and benedictions for the work we do here from our many friends in Saint Louis. We must accept them graciously, although we are uncomfortable to do so. There is a shoe repairman, now a friend, my father always spends time with on his final day. They have a tradition of offering and accepting "the special price"(far more than the local one). I have joined in with this tradition and so has Rowan. Our friend presented me with a gift he had kept for me since Christmas, to thank me. He has one for Dad too. It seems when ever we try to spread a little generosity, it comes back even greater, defeating our intent to offer discrete assistance. That is Senegal. How can this philosophy of caring and generosity co-exist with the miserable talibé system, we always wonder?

No one volunteers to do work like this for thanks or praise. The work and progress achieved is always its own reward. We have been so grateful for my sister, Lisa having encountered Issa Kouyate seven years ago, and for my father to have seen the potential for Issa to change the world. It continues to be an honour to do anything we can to help him do so.

Karate is going to Stick, and Friendship

As we prepared for the arrival of Master Ignéty Ba's Senseis to lead The Big Class Friday morning, Soulaymane taught Robbie how to brew ataya, a Senegalese sweet  mint green tea. They served it to Rowan and I as we helped the kids into their gis.

We used every available gi, again. The talibés love the karate lessons, and wearing the gi clearly gives them a sense of pride and achievement. Only a few children were too shy to line up to request a gi. Robbie and I organized the talibés into lines and after warming the kids up, Robbie invited the three visiting Senseis to lead the class. They soon divided the children into three smaller groups to work with them at their level of competence, just as we are familiar with at Robbie's dojo, Douvris.

The ability of the talibés to absorb the lessons and mimic their instructors is astonishing, for children

who live on the streets without parents, have no formal schooling, and are generally quite wild and undisciplined. At some level these children must crave structure and direction, because they respond to their karate teachers like star pupils. Even with Robbie, despite sharing barely a world of language in common, they followed his every instruction diligently, many wearing giant smiles. And, they so clearly are conscious that the karate is something special that can help to set them apart, help them to be more.

Sensei Gora Seck spoke to the children about respect. He encouraged them to honour their uniforms as if it were the Senegalese flag. He explained that self respect and the respect of others would soon follow. The senseis will help the children learn that discipline of the mind and the body are equally important for success in life.  Souleymane, who had drawn a pattern on the knee of gi pants, to identify them as his own, was devastated. He later did not stop scrubbing until the last mark was removed. These are lessons not easy to deliver to these children in this place, but with karate to show the way, the talibés of Maison de la Gare will now have better than a fighting chance to learn and integrate them.

Robbie assists and assesses Sensei Gora Seck

Issa Kouyate, director of Maison de la Gare,  was astonished that after just four Big Classes, the kids were so responsive and engaged, not to mention so effectively synchronized! They are happy to be so effectively organized. Issa hopes Master Ba will lead the children in a public demonstration at the main square of Saint Louis for the the National Day of Independence next month. A demo team! Issa intends for the Maison de la Gare karate program to demonstrate to people the potential of the talibés children, to encourage people to see them as more than beggars in the street.

About 12 children have been singled out for potential enrolment at Master Ba's dojo, Charles de

Gaulle. Robbie gave these kids extra training classes Friday afternoon and Saturday morning, to help them prepare for their first trial class at the dojo Saturday night. The boys are very fit, but were not accustomed to such effective cardio training as Robbie asked of them. Nevertheless, each responded with everything he had, determined to grasp the opportunity offered him. The smiles on their sweat-drenched faces when it was over when the fist bumping began said it all. Souleymane repaid Robbie by teaching him his favourite game of marbles. He later presented Robbie with his own set of marbles, likely gifting away one of his only possessions.

Robbie and Souleymane after training

The reality of street life asserted itself again when we arrived at Maison de la Gare at the appointed hour Saturday evening to collect the gis and walk together to The dojo. Several kids (all, of course, living without time to interfere too much in their lives) straggled in late. At 4:55pm we were waiting still for the one boy who had been entrusted with the keys. We were to be at the dojo at 5pm, and the gis were locked away on the other side of the gate. We arrived at the dojo late, after i rushed them all in a convoy of taxis, dressed in gis, and waited to be invited to join the class while Robbie and I explained that at the dojo, timeliness is another way of demonstrating respect. They were the only late arrivals, and I think the point was taken. (This lesson was natural coming from Robbie, who will drop dead of shame if he does not arrive ten minutes early to his dojo, but not so much from me).

The class was great. The dojo's system, and timeline and method of belt promotion seems much as at Douvris in Ottawa. Several black and brown belts were practicing a synchronized routine off to one side. The quality of their performance was fantastic, world class, and I was encouraged. Although Robbie was concerned that not all the Senseis wore full gis, he felt the dojo was a good one, and the instructors and program would be good for the talibés.

 Robbie readied the talibés for class at the dojo.

I was delighted to learn that the price of registering each child at the dojo and covering monthly fees would amount to about $75 per year, $100 if we include the cost of one replacement gi, given the 10 to 15 kids we are considering for the program at the dojo, initially. A much more reasonable cost than I initially expected, that should enable us to register even more talibé kids who become seriously committed to karate.

All interested children will be encouraged to continue to attend the Big Classes three mornings a week at the Maison de la Gare Centre, led by Master Ignéty Ba and his Senseis. We have gis for about 50 kids. Who knew we would have the potential to use even more than that!?

Sensei Gora Seck leads young talibés in The Big Class

The karate program is in place, and I have a high level of confidence that the classes and all the benefits they will bring to the talibés of Maison de la Gare will persist long after our departure from Senegal. Rowan has already earned a place firmly in the hearts of many talibés. Now, Robbie will not soon be forgotten here either.

Back to School for Rowan, and Karate for All!

Rowan accompanied Arouna to school today.  We waited outside the school for Arouna to arrive, and met many people we know. Bourama Sene, a waiter at the restaurant we frequent, La Residence, accompanied his two delightful children to class. Samir, our desk manager at the hotel, was enjoying his morning coffee at a local stand, catching up on morning news. And, of course, we were greeted by many talibes we knew: "Sonia!" "Rowan!" "Karate!", and by many we did not: "toubab!".  It is a different scene in Saint Louis before 8am.

The classes for today were science, French and English. Rowan got to sit in on a Senegalese sex education class. She said the information was very good and thorough until she was shocked to

Rowan and Arouna head into his school

"learn" that lemon juice consumed twice daily after sex might prevent pregnancy. Fortunately, this was not the only method of contraception imparted to the teenagers. They were also admonished that sex before marriage is very dangerous. Rowan thought it would be rude to contradict the teacher publicly about the lemon juice. But, she certainly made sure Arouna was set straight. Now, she thinks she understands why there are so many children in Senegal. The English teacher invited Rowan to write a class test. The marks were announced in order of best to worst, and the teacher proudly congratulated Rowan on her 100% score. Rowan will be writing about her experience attending classes with Arouna.

Robbie and Robin and I continued to the centre. Robin spent the morning with Mamadou, first directing him to write his name on his new gardening gloves, then directing him how to prune bushes, vines and fruit trees. Robin thinks they went a bit overboard with the giant bougainvilleas. But, they did need a trim. We were a bit more organized today getting the kids ready for karate class: Rowan

had set up a good system the first day and we were getting faster. Catalan volunteer, Lydie, helped the kids dress in a correctly sized gi. Souleymane is now a master of tying and belting gis at top speed, as am I. Even more came, as the news of karate is effectively spreading. Meanwhile, Robbie was sitting in the shade, trying to fight off his nausea and dizziness so he could instruct the class again.

In the end, I put on my own gi, and taught the class in his place. What to do? 50 kids were lined up excitedly anticipating the lesson. Robbie sat near me and called out my instructions one after the other, while trying not to be sick. We managed with this routine for about 45 minutes. The kids were fantastic and loved it. The number of "jokers" was fewer that before, as boys recognized this opportunity as something special. I was exhausted by the end. What a workout! In 30C.

Later, Noel Coly, who has been actively helping us organize this project, introduced us to Master Ignite Ba. He runs nearby Charles de Gaule dojo. A sixth degree in the Shoto Kan style, he is licensed to assess up to second dan. He is also a licensed referee for kata and kumite. Best: he is the coach of the Senegalese National Karate Team.  We also met with sensei Abdoulaye Diop, a second degree past black belt student of Master Ba. Both seem to be very sensitive to the talibés and appreciative of what an ongoing karate program could bring to the talibés. And, both are very open to and appreciative of our idea of periodic involvement of international volunteers/ guest instructors with the karate program on-going (an idea to explore later).

Robbie Hughes assists Sensei Diop

The next day we ran day three of The Big Class of karate. Even more kids appeared and for the first time we ran short of gis. We had a few extra gi tops, which Rowan used to dress the stragglers. This will be an incentive for kids to arrive early. Many kids now can properly tie their gis and belts on their own.  The smiles of joy and pride on so many faces as the kids belted themselves up nearly overwhelmed me. These children of the street are such quick learners. This must be an adaptation for survival on the streets.Thankfully, Rowan helped organize the gis after class, teaching some of the talibes how to do it to make things quicker the next morning. Robin spent most of the morning helping to prune and tidy up the Maison de la Gare garden, working with Mamadou again. Nurse Binta later helped him clean the cuts and scratches he got from the bougainvilleas.

Robbie was not well again in the morning. So, I warmed up the class according to Robbie's ongoing

instructions. Then, I handed the class over to Sensei Diop. He led the class, with Robbie's help, for about an hour. Robbie was very impressed with his competence and his manner with the kids, not to mention his ability to direct so effectively such a large class of boys with no structure or parental figures in their lives, other than Maison de la Gare. The kids are quite amazing in how quickly they are picking up karate. In many cases, once a stance is done properly once, it is not forgotten. Thus, each class is able to build on the last. The kids have nearly all learned right and left since classes began Monday. These kids are a Sensei's dream. At this point I can only imagine the magnitude of impact the karate program will have on some of these talibés' lives.

Tomorrow, we hope Master Ba will lead The Big Class, so Robbie can effectively assess his method and manner with the children. We will establish on-going Big Classes three mornings a week at the centre. All interested kids will get a chance to train regularly. And, talented kids with particular commitment and interest will be identified for potential sponsorship to the dojo. I am not sure yet what this training at the centre will cost (Noel is assisting with on-going negotiations) but I am committed to making it happen.

Robbie and several of the talibé kids with natural talent and a keen interest will train at the Charles de Gaule dojo Saturday evening. If it goes as well as we hope, at least four of them, to start, will be registered at the dojo thanks to the sponsorship of some Douvris families back in Ottawa.

Robbie Hughes and Master Ignéty Ba

Membership is financially quite expensive by local standards, but I think this dojo, the access to regulated competitions, the association with the Senegalese Karate Federation, and this Master will be worth it. In Canadian dollars, the registration and monthly membership cost for this dojo will work out to about $300 per year per student (A Canadian charitable tax receipt will be given to sponsors. Let Sonia know if you are interested in sponsoring a talibé to join the dojo at hughes-leroy@rogers.com. Or, you can send a cheque payable to Maison de la Gare c/o Sonia LeRoy or Robbie Hughes at Bank Street Douvris or c/o Rod LeRoy, 108 Astoria Ave. Pointe Claire, Quebec H9S5A8).

Talibé in Trouble follow up:

Hamedi gi'd up for his second karate Big Class today. He is recovering well from the trauma of being chained by the ankles by his marabout for not meeting his begging quota. He has been catching onto karate well. By the end of the class he was smiling! Robbie gave him a Douvris top to keep as a souvenir. Despite the heavy material which surely must have been VERY warm in this heat, Hamedi would not take it off. Happiness.

Best Day Ever - Karate Can Kick Poverty

Robbie's idea of bringing karate to the talibe children of Maison de la Gare blossomed into reality today. The word had gotten around that there was to be karate at the centre this morning and many kids were waiting to try the sport for the first time. Souleymane, an older talibe, now freed from forced begging who works as an apprentice leader at Maison de la Gare, helped to organize the kids.

Maison de la Gare Junior Leader

He is also particularly interested in martial arts himself, and Robbie will train him to be a junior leader to the Maison de la Gare program. He will wear a red gi to differentiate him as a leader.

We soon fell into a system that worked well, Rowan sorted the gis into sizes and the kids came in to put on their gis two at a time. Rowan helped them dress, Soulaymane tied up the uniforms, and I

Souleymane dresses a talibe in his new gi

belted them. Then, off they went, back to Robbie's class and each sent another child in to get his own gi. About an hour into the lesson about a dozen kids had to leave to return to their daaras and the reality of their lives reasserted itself. At least 50 kids put on gis for the karate lesson today. Amazingly, and with great thanks to Douvris MA and Douvris families, we had enough for all! When the session was over, all kids returned the gis to Rowan. Some kids folded them neatly and handed them back carefully, others tossed them on a pile. This will be another lesson to impart tomorrow. We have to remind ourselves: these kids do not have parents to teach them, they live on the streets. They

Rowan prepares to sort the gis after class 

have no possessions of their own to care for. We need to show them the way. Ablaye, Souleymane, and Rowan then organized all the gis back into sizes and into separate duffels to await the next class, tomorrow.Robbie instructed dozens of talibes in karate basics for about an hour and a half. Robbie had been very sick the afternoon and night before, and it was hot in the sun, about 28 C, but he insisted on continuing with the kids who were loving every minute of it. He said afterward: "Mom, it was amazing. You cannot believe how great it was!". The talibes loved the experience and are keen to do it again tomorrow.

Robbie has already marked a few boys as being particularly talented, with much potential. He will http://youtu.be/a7obIUd3dvI

single them out tomorrow to work with them one on one. These are candidates for registration in a local dojo. He also spotted one or two jokers who may not be as suited to the sport. He will have a word with them tomorrow about respecting the gi. For the most part, the boys took their karate opportunity very seriously, and enjoyed every minute. It also became a bit of an English lesson, as they all counted in unison with Robbie.

After the big lesson, Robbie spent about half an hour with Soulaymane, giving him "a private", orienting him to be a junior leader and helping him to make the jump from kung-fu, which he had

recently started to learn, to karate. Some of the other older talibes are now also keen to take up karate. Mamadou and Ablaye are looking forward to Robbie's return to the centre so they can try on their own gis and get "a private". Good thing we also brought some adult sizes.

The key to the success of the karate program will be establishing a routine that can persist after our departure, and involving local karate teachers. And, finding a suitable dojo to partner with, ongoing. We have visited one dojo that turned out to  specialize in Judo and jiu-jitsu. But, we have been

Two little ones waiting for gis

pointed to several others that are karate. Tomorrow, we hope to be introduced to a local karate master to discuss the possibility of classes being held at the centre several days a week on an ongoing basis. Noel has arranged for the master to come to watch the class in the morning and discuss the possibilities. We will have to judge if he is supportive of what we are trying to do here, and kind and respectful to the children. If not, there are others. If he seems to be a good fit, Robbie will then visit his dojo.

Robin spent several hours with Mamadou this morning visiting about six different shops (one does not have the part and directs you to another across town, then that one sends you to another close to where you first were, etc, etc, etc.) looking for hardware and a suitable clothes line to hang at the centre, for drying washed clothes and the gis the children will be using ongoing. This will save Mamadou's plants from their current role as clothes horses.

We were invited by Noel Coly, a new Maison de la Gare supporter, to visit the church where he sings in the choir. We understood we would be attending a concert. But all four of us were invited to sing in the choir during a rehearsal. Oh my goodness!!! The choir director, Nestor Emmanuel Sambou, was out of this world, and the music was as if sent straight from heaven! He even made us sound good.

Talibe in trouble follow up

We were happy to see Hamedi at the centre this morning. Mamadou reported that the child had not slept well, he kept waking with bad dreams. Hamedi seemed even smaller and younger today. Issa spent the day giving his deposition and providing the evidence that should keep this boy's marabout in prison at least for a while. Insha'Allah.

       "Les talibés d'aujourd'hui sont les hommes de demain"

Maison de la Gare - de retourne

I woke up with the first light of day and the muezzin's call to prayer. I am excited to be back in Saint Louis. And, it feels like there is so much to do.

On our way to Maison de la Gare we were so happy to meet Kalidou on the street. It was a poignant reunion for Rowan and I and Robbie who has communicated with Kalidou for years but was meeting him for the first time.

At Maison de la Gare, it definitely felt like coming home. Mamadou welcomed us to the centre. He proudly showed us the garden, explained what plants they are currently growing. Finally, the

coconuts have taken hold and are strong enough not to succumb to soccer balls or little feet. He also gave Robbie and Robin a tour of the new Foyer de Transition. Robbie eyed the roof-top terrace as an excellent spot to practice karate.

Robin noticed the lime trees need pruning and a few cupboards are missing locks, and thus also some of their contents. He and Mamadou promptly went off to the market to visit some local hardware stores to buy locks, tools, pruning shears and a saw. Upon their return a few hours later, Robin installed the locks. Later, he will teach Mamadou how to prune the fruit trees.

Rowan was soon at work making friendship bracelets with the talibes, and teaching them the art of it as well. They absolutely love her.Robbie soon found his first karate student. Djibe, about age 10, is the same boy who, last year would follow me everywhere. He had a knack for survival, being in the right place at the right times. He was always hopping in my taxis, or showing up at a meal time. At the end of my last visit, his mother,

who lives nearby, but has sent him to a daara anyway, asked me to take him home with me to Canada so Djibe could work and send her money. She was serious. My kids are very upset I did not take her up on it. I am so thankful Maison de la Gare is part of his life. And, it seems like karate could be as well. Djibe caught on to Robbie's lessons amazingly well. He has a clear natural talent and interest for the sport. And, Robbie is clearly his new best friend.

The word is getting around that karate classes will begin tomorrow. Today, Robbie showed a few talibes kids what was in store with some impromptu lessons. Later, Djibe returned the favour and taught Robbie how to play the djembe drums. Robbie was as apt a djembe pupil as Djibe was for karate.

Noel Coly, new at Maison de la Gare, is searching for several karate masters who could be suitable to teach ongoing lessons several days a week at the centre. He will also help us to determine which would be the most suitable local dojo for registering some of the talibe children. Souleymane, an

older talibe, is already practicing martial arts at a dojo nearby, kung-fu. He believes in the value of

this new program and thus he has agreed to change to karate, to help as a junior leader on an on-going basis with the karate classes at the centre, and to join the new dojo Robbie chooses for Maison de la Gare as the first talibe student. Tonight Noel will help to spread the word that karate begins tomorrow morning at Maison de la Gare. Many here seem to understand the possibilities that the sport can offer to these talibes children: confidence, discipline, strength, character, teamwork, respect, a sense of belonging, and a skill to carry with them all their lives.

Robbie is spreading the Douvris student creed:

"My goal is to become the best person I can be. I will achieve this objective by disciplining my body and my mind, working to overcome obstacles that hinder my positive growth. I know this will take discipline. I am ready to make this commitment to myself in order to become the best person I can be and to share this progress with others."

  Talibe in Trouble

Today we met a boy, aged 5 or 6 at the most, Hamedi, who has been beaten and chained by a marabout we have has the misfortune to learn of before. Last Octobre Rowan and I spent the evening with a group of runaway talibes that were sheltering at Issa's house. One, aged 5, Pape, had been

Mamadou

beaten and chained by a particular marabout who had made himself scarce when Issa discovered and rescued the boy. Pape was so starved for human affection that he would not leave my side, and spent the evening in my arms. Maison de la Gare received permission from the state at that time to return Pape home to his village to be reunited with his family. This time the marabout was not successful in disappearing to avoid trouble, and was put in prison today for his crime, as the evidence was obvious and undeniable. Hamedi is sleeping in the Foyer de Transition tonight, with older talibe MDG apprentices, Mamadou, in charge of his wellbeing, and Souleymane, to assist. Mamadou's pride and happiness in being trusted with such an important charge is only matched by Hamedi's relief at feeling safe and cared for for the fist time in too long. In the morning, when we return to the centre, we will see how the night passed.

"We shall overcome because the arc of the moral universe is long, but it bends towards justice."

         - Martin Luther King Jr.