On Our Way Home

Because my family is with me already, leaving Senegal is just bitter, without the usual sweet. Our good byes to our talibé friends at Maison de la Gare were as difficult as always. Their lives can change so much in the time between my visits.

Souleymane may be able to get a final release from his marabout, but it could involve returning to his

Souleymane and Robbie

village in The Gambia for a short time. Then, will he have a family to welcome him there or not? Will he return to Saint Louis to begin his formal education, planned to begin in September? Or, is there a chance for education for him in The Gambia? Others, even without families, may need to return to villages in Cassamance or even in other countries, where they were originally trafficked from so long ago, to be officially freed from marabouts, despite being old enough that the official guardianship should be over. (Leaving the marabout and the exploitation of the daara is political, and complicated.) But, there is civil unrest in Cassamance. Will they be safe? Thanks to Rowan having introduced the talibés to email and facebook, we can keep track of each other to a certain extent. Ibrahima is a little, super intelligent talibé who loves the karate classes and shows wonderful

Robbie and Ibrahima

potential. Last time I was here, he had not been coming around to Maison de la Gare, his marabout seemed not to be permitting it. We saw him on the streets, looking downtrodden and filthy. But now, proud of his gi, and seeing an opportunity with karate, he is back. Will he keep coming to Maison de la Gare? The teachers will encourage him to French classes. Will he be be a candidate to be registered in the formal school system? Will Djibe continue with karate? He is a natural with the bo staff, but then hung back from lessons later in the week, seemingly a bit jealous of Robbie's budding relationship with Souleymane. It is not easy leaving these children behind. But, we do know Issa and the Maison de la Gare Team will do what they can, watch over them.

Robbie will particularly miss Souleymane. They have become close friends since Robbie took him under his wing, pulling him aside for some special karate classes, and honouring him with a red gi to

Robbie and Souleymane, playing marbles

mark him as a helper for karate Big Classes. Souleymane taught Robbie to make and properly serve ataya, and to play marbles. They came up with a special handshake. Robbie gave him sunglasses and Souleymane gave Robbie his marbles. Although Souleymane is nearly an adult, he has a child's heart. A few years ago, during a day of celebrations at the centre, with games and colouring, I found Souleymane in a classroom with four and five year olds, colouring dinosaurs, for hours. He joined in every game, wheelbarrow races, blind mans's bluff, skipping rope. I think he never before had the opportunity of a childhood, and makes up for that when he can. Souleymane also loves karate, and has a natural talent. His lack of awareness of time passing will surely be helped by karate classes.

Robbie also has become close with Mamadou, as has Robin. Mamadou is loving the karate too, giving every workout everything he has. His big smile seemed permanently fixed in place this week. Robin and Mamadou spent many hours together, shopping for supplies and working in the garden.

Robin and Mamadou

Robin tried to explain how the trees and vines must be pruned, showed him now. And, Robin helped Mamadou with watering and garden maintenance. Many times during the week I would leave a karate class and wonder where Robin was, to be told he was off at the market with Mamadou again. Robin seemed surprisingly comfortable here. He appreciated the natural rhythm of the traffic and the pace, the unspoken rules of courtesy and logic that seem universally honoured, in a way I had not previously perceived.

Rowan is beloved of all the talibés. They gather round her, hoping to be shown how to make friendship bracelets, or to just hang out. Rowan and Arouna have a strong friendship. Arouna is

seventeen, and he has been registered in the formal school system for years, currently in the quartieme, the year before high school. He is a diligent student, never faltering from his studies despite years of exploitation and forced begging. I remember times when he stayed up in his daara,

Rowan and Arouna

past midnight, and did homework by the light of the moon. Maison de la Gare's support has been life changing for Arouna. He is from Cassamance, and both his parents are deceased. He is free of his marabout, thankfully. His three adored younger sisters, still in Cassamance, are waiting for him to find success, so he can help them to a better life too. Rowan and Arouna worry about each other when Rowan is in Canada, and exchange electronic communications frequently. Rowan accompanied Arouna to school one day this week, as she did once before. They collaborated on an article about the new karate program and what it means for Maison de la Gare, Rowan writing the English version, and Arouna writing the French, while exchanging thoughts and ideas to ensure they wrote similar articles. Rowan, in particular, can hardly bare to leave Saint Louis when the time comes to go.

We enjoyed much hospitality while in Saint Louis. We did not have time to accept all of our invitations. We did enjoy a traditional senegalese dinner with our friend, Ami, her daughter and

Dinner at Ami's house

grandaughter, at their home. Ami works hard selling bracelets to tourists to support her entire family. And, there are very few tourists since the fear of Ebola began to scare people away. Thank goodness Senegal remains free of Ebola. The economy here is challenged enough. We brought a chocolate cake from a local French bakery to present to Ami's mother. I have never before seen her move from her place by the front door. But, instead of sharing the cake with the family, she took it to another room and ate the entire thing herself!?! It was a big cake. We hope she is alright. Bouri, a teacher at Maison de la Gare and the mother of my godchild, Mouhamed, and her family of seven came to our hotel with a Senegalese chicken dinner her daughter cooked, to eat together. Other invitations will have to wait until another time.

Bouri and her family prepared a meal to share with us

As usual, we were showered with gifts and benedictions for the work we do here from our many friends in Saint Louis. We must accept them graciously, although we are uncomfortable to do so. There is a shoe repairman, now a friend, my father always spends time with on his final day. They have a tradition of offering and accepting "the special price"(far more than the local one). I have joined in with this tradition and so has Rowan. Our friend presented me with a gift he had kept for me since Christmas, to thank me. He has one for Dad too. It seems when ever we try to spread a little generosity, it comes back even greater, defeating our intent to offer discrete assistance. That is Senegal. How can this philosophy of caring and generosity co-exist with the miserable talibé system, we always wonder?

No one volunteers to do work like this for thanks or praise. The work and progress achieved is always its own reward. We have been so grateful for my sister, Lisa having encountered Issa Kouyate seven years ago, and for my father to have seen the potential for Issa to change the world. It continues to be an honour to do anything we can to help him do so.