Karate Can Kick Poverty - Still in Action at Maison de la Gare

Last year my son, 13 year old Robbie Hughes had a vision for a karate program for the talibe children of Maison de la Gare. 8 months ago when my family visited Maison de la Gare that vision was implemented. We arrived with dozens of donated gis and Robbie began giving karate classes at Maison de la Gare. Before long each of the 70 gis we brought were in use as talibe children who live primarily on the streets and are forced to beg for hours each day discovered karate.

Robbie assisting at MDG karate class

At first it seemed incongruous. These kids have no discipline or structure in their lives. Their onlyauthority figure is an often abusive marabout who uses them as modern day slaves. But Robbie pointed out: "who needs the confidence, self-discipline, self-defence skills, and a sense of belonging to something important more than these kids?". Karate offers all these things, Robbie reminded me. Wisdom.

Karate is taught at the centre four mornings a week. One little boy, Yaya, seems particularly devoted,

Yaya

attending nearly every day. He takes karate very seriously and learns quickly. He always wears the purple dinosaur gi, and refuses to relinquish it despite the fact that it has clearly become too small for him. Today Yaya was promoted to the more advanced group. And, Issa, the president of Maison de la Gare will speak to Yaya's marabout about permitting him to be registered at the dojo.

The local dojo, Sor-Karate, Saint Louis that we found to partner with Maison de la Gare last March,

Maison de la Gare kids at the dojo

has kept the karate program at Maison de la Gare going. Most of the dozen talibes Robbie had identified to be registered at the dojo have progressed impressively and will soon be testing for orange belts. Ismaila, who assists instructing the Maison de la Gare morning karate classes will be

Robbie with Samba

testing for his green belt tonight. Robbie and I have been invited to attend the grading. Talibe, Samba was initially registered at the dojo, but dropped out after a few months. Apparently his heels were injured and he could not practice.  But, he is better now, and we have re-registered him at the dojo. Samba is proud of his new gi and keen to begin again and catch up to the other dojo talibes. Several of the Maison de la Gare kids have begun sparring and are ready for competition. However, equipment is lacking. At the dojo one pair of kumite gloves was shared among all. Robbie joined the open mat training last night and offered his gloves for use. The kids took advantage of having two full sets of gloves and a series of sparring matches ensued. Having watched many competitive sparring matches over the years, I was impressed.

The talibe kids have seen some of Robbie's bo competitions on you.tube, and they also want to learn. We found broomsticks in the market that will serve fairly well as bo staves, although they are a foot or two too short. Robbie is using these for training. His initial bo lesson with Ismaila reminded us

how eager and capable these kids are of learning quickly when they are motivated. This morning after karate classes five kids asked Robbie to teach them bo. I later noticed several broom heads lying discarded, stripped of their broom handles which are now being used as bos. I am fairly certain there is also a shovel head now missing its handle.Their class on the roof of the Dortoir d'Urgence proved, once again, how quickly these kids learn.

The dojo does not study weapons, but they also are keen to start. Master Ignate Ba has asked Robbie to teach him bo as well, so he can introduce it at the dojo. Robbie has his work cut out for him here. Fortunately, it is a labour of love.

Welcome Home to Maison de la Gare

Maison de la Gare

With each kilometer that passed on the road from Dakar to Saint Louis we settled more into the rhythm of this place. The desperate-to-earn-a-living roadside merchants swarming cars, hoping to sell sunglasses, phone credit, Kleenex, peanuts, t-shirts, toys, cookies, and pots and pans fell behind as we drove out of the city. They were replaced by stalls lining the roads, selling furniture, baskets, and household supplies, as we passed through the suburbs. Then speeding on surprisingly good roads through the African landscape of baobab forests and desert scrub populated by goats, donkeys, zebu, and the occasional person, each community we passed through was dedicated to selling a single product. One town offered meat. Aging carcasses lined the highway, displayed for sale. Another town seemed to be the car repair centre for the entire country. Many others sold melons. Pile after pile of watermelons lined the road, tended, it seemed, by all the females of the community. Who buys these thousands upon thousands of melons, we wonder. I have never witnessed more than one or two to change hands in commerce. In a different season it will be clementines. Or, pain de seinge.

Le Pont Faidherbe

After about four hours of driving, as salt began to mix with the sandy, heavy air, we spotted the palms of la Langue de Barbarie across the Senegal River. Then the half kilometer long Pont Faidherbe led us to the Island of Saint Louis once more.

After just enough time to unpack some gifts and organize the books for the library and the donated karate supplies that a made this trip with us, we were off to Maison de la Gare.

A joking group of talibes just being kids

As soon as we arrived at the alley leading to the Centre, I heard my name being called by about six familiar faces. Little, barefoot, filthy, delightful boys. Talibes. They each rushed forward for a proper hand clasp greeting.  Several repeated my name, wanting to ensure I knew that they know me. Their welcoming smiles grew bigger when i began to pass out candy and the group of six instantly, miraculously became a clamouring horde of twenty. When will I learn? Some of the original six shook their heads at me knowingly.

Upon entering the sanctuary of Maison de la Gare, all we saw were smiles and all we felt was welcome. Long time, once talibe friends, now staff of Maison de la Gare greeted us first with shy smiles and then warm embraces. Then a Maison de la Gare teacher, the mother of my Godchild approached and updated me on Mouhamed's progress. Kindergarten and a loving family - what all these talibe boys deserve and will never have.

The progress at the centre was encouraging. Mamadou has clearly been busy. The coconut trees have finally taken hold, no longer in danger of succumbing to stray soccer balls or wrestling children. The papayas have finally survived the season of wind/sandstorms to stand tall and bear fruit. The children attended class, played games, washed clothes, and read in the library. And, karate continues. Soulaymane proudly announced his imminent orange belt grading and the beginning of sparring competition. Robbie

Teacher, Bouri M'Bodj with talibe students

can't wait to start drilling him. And, Ismaila, who appeared at Maison de la Gare because of the karate has won a silver medal in competition! Maison de la Gare proudly safeguards his medal, a triumph for all the talibes. Samba, who had amazing potential and natural karate form has stopped practicing karate. I hope to uncover the reason why. But, he promised Robbie he will begin again tomorrow.

After a long and emotionally charged day, our hearts are full but our eyes are heavy. Back to the comfort of Maison Rose to unpack, organize the rest of our supplies, and check in with loved ones back home on-line. As I tuck in under my mosquito net, with family at my side and people watching out for me nearby, I cannot help but worry about where the talibes are sleeping tonight.

Maison Rose, an oasis of comfort in Saint Louis to us as Maison de la Gare is to talibes

On our way, again...

A busy Dakar beach 

We  are on our way! In the air, heading toward Dakar. It feels as though I have only just left Africa. I can almost feel the powerful African sun on my skin. Taste the hot, heavy, sandy air, that is at once humid and dry, at the back of my throat. Sense the unique African pace that is slow and methodical, chaotic and energetic, all at the same time. Hear familiar sounds. The Imam's call to prayer. Voices of strangers who seem to know us. "De retour!", "Les Canadiens! Combien de temps cette fois?".  And best "Ah, les amis des talibes!".

We are heading back to a land of paradoxes. The greatest one of all, of course, is the existence of the talibes. Young boys far from home and family, forced to beg for hours each day by corrupt

Chains on a talibe who ran

marabouts. This transgression against humanity persists in the land of Teranga. A land where people share what they have with neighbours, friends, strangers, and beggars alike.

Rod LeRoy with talibes in a Dara in 2010

This time I am travelling with my father, Rod LeRoy and my 13 year old son, Robbie Hughes. This is my eighth visit to Senegal with my father and my second with my son to work with Maison de la Gare.

Maison de la Gare win the Championship Game


The children of this place have become a second family to us. We celebrate their triumphs. Yellow and orange belts earned in karate. Registration in the public school system. Another

Robbie teaching karate

tournament win for the Maison de la Gare soccer team. We mourn the losses. A death to malaria. A disabling injury or infection. The persecution of an abusive marabout. A runaway rescued in a "ronde de nuit" sent back to his marabout by the police. Daily forced begging. And, we worry. There is no one else but Maison de la Gare to worry out these boys.

Soon we will be reunited with our Maison de la Gare family, welcomed back with open arms and open smiles. We will learn what challenges they currently face. What hopes they currently have. Who has given up. Who is still fighting. Who is triumphing against all odds.

Let the adventure begin, again...