Ronde de Nuit

Since several years ago we discovered Issa Kouyate's nightime personal habit of searching the dark alleys, transportation yards, and dangerous, dark corners of Saint Louis for runaway talibes after midnight, "Night Rounds" have become part of Maison de la Gare's regular activities. Teams now head out from the centre at least twice a week in search of young boys who have run away from their daaras, typically due to abuse, sexual assault, ot fear of reprisal for failing to meet a begging quota.

Ran Ran Video

The boys are at terrible risk when on the run. They try to strike a delicate balance between not being found and not being too alone and thus subject to the whims of sexual predators, or slavers. Their vulnerable lives become even more outrageously exposed to the chance of meeting evil or the goodness of strangers when they are living on the streets at night. During the days the worst the talibes need to deal with on the streets is usually injury, hunger, exhaustion, bullying. Predators do not need to hunt during the day, as there is always ample supply at night. Imagine how bad it must be to know what awaits, and to run anyway.

Each time we have joined Issa or another team for a Ronde de Nuit, we begin with a barely surpressed excitement co-mingled with anxiety. And, fear. Not our own, but the shadow of a sense of what the boys we are searching for must be feeling. Excitement that we will find them and help them. Anxiety that we might find them - we always hope there will be none on the streets tonight. But, sadly, there are always many.

The very first time my Dad, Rowan and I went out on a Ronde de Nuit what we saw branded us forever. We had been intending to go out the night before, but we were waiting on a news crew that wanted to follow Issa with cameras. So we put it off. The second night the news crew wanted us to postpone again but we decided to go. We found four boys, huddled together in the cold. Tucked into their t-shirts. Under a light, just-in-case. One little one was more difficult to approach, nore reluctant to trust us. Rowan eventually won a tiny smile as she gently zipped her Lu-Lu Lemon jacket around him. He had apparently been sexually assaulted the night before while on the street. THE NIGHT BEFORE! This knowledge is now part of me, will always be.

Last Tuesday night Dad was sick during the night and could not join us. Idy and Badji, leaders of the Maison de la Gare Ronde de Nuit team, met Rowan and I at midnight at the Centre. We took taxis out to the Gare Routiere at the edge of town. This is a large area full of hundreds of busses, trucks, cars, all ready to take off to different parts of Senegal, The Gambia, and beyond first thing in the morning. The runaways often hide out here with the idea that they could steal away on a ride home. How often do kids inadvertantly end up in another, unknown country? I cannot bear to imagine. And, sometimes, as the kids sleep under vehicles to stay out of reach of potential predators, they are run over as the wheels start to move earlier than expected, before the sun rises.  

We found five boys. After meeting three more members of the team, splitting into two groups, Rowan in one with Idy, and I in the other with Badji, we prowled through the narrow alleys, shone our flashlights under cars, into parked busses, behind crevices. My light soon shone upon a grown man, huddled under a blanket, hidden behind a half-wall. As my light moved along, it soon shone upon a tiny bundle, opposite to the grown man. Ibrahima. Badji estimated his age at ten. How could this little waife have been older than six? Badji gently woke him and spoke with him in Wolof. The boy was convinced to follow. But I stayed a step behind, with a hand hovering and ready to leap just in case he chose to run. We soon found three more boys, 

piled together under canvas rags. They were also sleeping opposite a grown homeless man. But, there can be safety in numbers. As they were gently woken from sleep, reality began to hit me hard, as it does every time I do this. Nothing to do but just DO. After all, what is what I feel compared to what they lived? We soon met up with Rowan's group and paused to note the names and daaras of the boys, and to learn something of their stories. The night 

here is cold at this time of year. Little Ibrahima was shivering, perhaps from the cold, perhaps from fear. Rowan removed her Favourite Ten Tree sweater (deja-vu) and put it on Ibrahima. As he huddled into the new-found warmth, Rowan peeled a few oranges and handed them out. Then, we hopped into taxis to  return to the dortoir d'urgence at Maison de la Gare. As we were leaving the Gare Routiere another little talibe came up to the car. He had been watching. We must have looked like help and not hurt. He hopped in. Then he fell right asleep.

When we arrived back at the centre the boys were registered with the social worker who is always on duty. Rowan and I helped find the bedding and set them up in the first beds they had likely ever known, the bunkbeds we first sketched out on paper for the carpenter three years ago when the dortoir was  built.

Rowan and I returned in the morning and settled in with the little runaways. They seemed to trust us, and were soon out of their shells, playing chase and tickle games, reading and dancing to music. One by one, the social worker sat with them to try to figure out where they were from, which daara, which village, country? Had they been abused? Did they want to go home? Did they have a home to return to?

Only one boy, Amadou, would be returned to his distant home. This is planned for later next week, after his Marabout can be located and has been called to account. The others will be returned to their daaras later today. A difficult thing. But, the Palais de Justice has spoken, and the boys did not choose home - maybe none exists any longer for them? But, Maison de la Gare now knows them, and they now know Maison de la Gare. Maison de la Gare will watch their daaras.  Their marabouts know they will be watching. This helps.

I saved writing about our Ronde de Nuit until we were safely on our way home, flying back toward my usual reality. Each one of us seems to know just what we can take. These talibe boys seem to be able to take more than most of us. But, for the love of God, why must they? 

Karate Can Kick Hopelessness, You Have No Idea!

After our first full day at Maison de la Gare I was looking forward to training at Sor-Karate and working out the travel kinks. Sensei Ignety Ba would be there to lead the class. When I arrived at the dojo with Rowan,  Mamadou and some other talibe friends, I was greeted warmly. Everyone asked after Robbie, dissapointed that he had not come this time. Many asked me to pass on congratulations to Robbie for his fourth place finish at the WKC World Karate Championships. They had seen the YouTube videos of his performances and exclaimed at the speed and beauty of his weapons katas. They assured each other that with such skill and with Allah's help Robbie would surely earn the gold medal next year. Actually, many people have asked about Robbie this week, wishing he was here too, offering congratulations for his showing at Worlds. 

The training was challenging, as it always is at Sor-karate, but very satisfying. Thanks to my regular traditional-style karate classes with Sensei Subhadra at Douvris Martial Arts, I was becoming somewhat familiar with the Shotokan style practiced here.  And, my recognition of the Japanese terms for strikes, blocks, and other terms is thankfully improving. As I practiced self defence drills with Mamadou I got the impression that he just could not get comfortable throwing me. But it was fun returning the favour. 

Wednesday night I returned to the dojo to discuss the progress of the karate program, and to deliver the Douvris gym bags which were a gift from Cathy Douvris to the tournament team. Ignety had been considering since Monday who would round out the final list of five Maison de la Gare boys  who would compete this year, along with the amazing synchro kata team who are National contenders. Earlier this year Omar Balde won a bronze medal in fighting in a WKC qualifying competition, making him eligible for Nationals. The team was very pleased and proud to receive their bags, as well as the water bottles and protein powder I brought.

The team's first tournament of the year will be in Kaolack January 13, 14. They will meet at about midnight, spend all night on the bus to get there, two days competing (their hotel in Kaolack will not resemble those we usually stay at when Team Douvris travels), then all night on a bus to return. #anything for karate. This particular tournament will cost a total of about $540 to pull off (for the journey, registration fees, hotel, food, etc, for all 5 plus the coach). I will find the money for this one, and hopefully for more. Most of the regular Sor-Karate competitors are not able to afford to travel often to tournaments. Competition would be an impossible dream for the Maison de la Gare Team without our help. 

Wednesday I did not practice at the dojo, so I could speak with Sensei to review the list of talibes continuing to attend at the dojo, those who returned to their villages. and new ones who are wanting to begin. We also discussed the new idea for the supplementary meals program that Noel Coly came up with. When I saw the kicking drills the kids were asked to do, I was relieved I was watching and not practicing. I am not sure I could have kept up. Mamadou has gotten so fast and is kicking so high, he is definately a good match for Omar now. #teammates.

Some of the older boys have "aged out" of their daaras and have left to return home, and so the number of older boys registered at the dojo has shrunk. But, to my delight, a number of younger boys are ready to start, and it seems their marabouts will allow it. Ignety Ba is allowing an earlier class on Thursday nights so the younger kids will be able to practice at the dojo in order to meet their daara curfews. As happy as I am that some younger kids are starting at the dojo, I think it is still just as important for the older kids too. As the kids age, and are eventually freed from their marabout's requirement to deliver a daily begging quota, they are often left with nothing to do and nowhere to go. They have no education and have not learned a trade, especially if they were new to Maison de la Gare. When Rowan and I went out on a ronde de nuit Tuesday after midnight in search of runaway talibes boys sleeping on the street, we saw many young men who had been talibes sleeping or hanging out at the Gare Routiere, clearly at loose ends and homeless. Having karate as an important part of their lives will offer something worthwhile to boys in this situation.

Friday morning Bouaro led a karate class at Maison de la Gare, with about 20 kids.  I delivered all the donated Canadian Gi's, so some kids who had been waiting for uniforms were able to start karate classes today. I had been looking forward to training with them but I had been sick all night, and was still barely holdng it together. Instead, I discussed the new meal plan with Noel and took pictures of the karate kids. I think I felt how Robbie must have felt nearly three years ago when he was determined to teach but could not stand without being sick. A class of about 70 kids was assembled waiting for him to begin. So, he sat hunched beside me on the sand, giving instrutions for me (a yellow belt at the time) to lead the class, call by call. #anythingforkarate. 

When Robbie and I were here last time and we trained together with the Sor-Karate Club we noticed the Maison de la Gare kids needed frequent breaks to recover from faintness. We later figured out their weakness was due to not having eaten. When they train at the dojo (nearly every night) they miss 

their only certain meal of the day for which they don't have to beg, at Maison de la Gare. But, they choose karate anyway. So Robbie and I organized a meal to be available a few hours before training, twice a week. This had been working well, but as some boys left and others joined, the new kids did not  necessarily learn  about the meal plan, and some of the old ones began taking the extra meals for their friends. Who could blame them? So, based on Noel's advice I visited a new restaurant, making a deal with the owner for tickets to be presetned in exchange for a meal, every Monday, Wednesday and Friday after karate training. These are the days Sensei Ignety Ba teaches at the dojo. After training, he will hand out tickets to the Maison de la Gare boys who trained that day. As not every kid trains at the dojo every night, this new system allows us to add the third meal per week. And, by having 3 certain, good meals a week, eating after instead of before training should still be effective, as the kids will eat more often.

One of the kids told me on this trip that he thinks I must love karate too much. He followed this up by saying they were very grateful to Allah for that, because they do too.

Redefining the Persevering Spirit

Arouna's nephew, Mohamed is adorable. He has two new loves, karate and Kalidou. Although he recently lost his mother, Arouna's sister, Mohamed is adjusting to a new life. Children here have no choice but to be adaptable. He is already one of the keenest young karate students. And, he has latched onto our friend Kalidou, and follows him everywhere.  Maison de la Gare is Mohamed's new home. The staff here are his new parents, and his hope for a decent future is renewed. And, despite the unexpected responsibility for his sister's child, Arouna will carry on with his schooling. He may become prime minister yet. Mohamed will also be registered in the public school system as part of Maison de la Gare's program to keep boys from living the talibe life. 

Arouna made his way through the public school system while he was a begging talibe. He slept in his daara each night and submitted his begging quota each day to his marabout. He lived this way from the age of six. But he also visited Maison de la Gare each day and the opportunity to learn caught his attention. Issa Kouyate was impressed by Arouna's intelligence and interest in self improvement and after Arouna  learned enough French and math in Maison de la Gare's classes Issa  registered him in school.   During his primary school years Arouna did his homework by the light of the moon after midnight, when all the other begging street boys slept. There is no electricity in the daara, of course. He begged or found discarded fish to sell in the market to make up his begging quotas each day during the lunch break and after school. And, he visited Maison de la Gare for moral support, a meal, a shower, decent clothes, and tutoring help.  He was also discriminated against at school, taunted for being a talibe. He repeated many grades, as other, non-talibe students were promoted in his place, and often studied with students much younger than himself. 

When Arouna was a young begging talibe his parents died, and Arouna only learned of it years later. His extended family stole his inheritance and effectively enslaved his sisters. None of this stopped him. It just steeled his resolve to better himself, and he persevered. But imagine the heavy burden in his heart. Five years ago Arouna showed me his mother's identity card, which he still carries with him, the only photo he has to remind him. A few years later Arouna started high school, but his lack of identity papers prevented his diploma from the lower level being recognized, and thus prevented him from being permitted to write high school exams. This summer Arouna's identity papers finally became a reality. He wrote and passed his first exams. 

 

Now Arouna is living at Maison de la Gare, in the dortoir d'urgence. He is free from his marabout. He discusses economics and philosophy like any engaged, intelligent young person interested in bettering himself and his country.  Arouna will likely finish high school, and then he will carry on to university, Insha'Allah. It is my greatest wish that I will need to find him a scholarship to attend university in the near future. Arouna's journey has been a struggle that students at my kids' schools cannot possibly imagine. 

Hopefully, education will not be such a struggle for Mohamed. He will not have the stigma of being a talibe, although he will live among them. He will not need to find a way to fill a daily begging quota. He will sleep in a real bed each night, and he will be surrounded by people who care for him. And, he has the inspiring example of Arouna before him, who understands the value of an education.

Travelling Day, we'll Meet at Saint Louis

As our plane flys over Saint Louis on the way to Dakar, it is beginning to feel close. Maybe five hours from now, Insha'Allah we will be arriving in Saint Louis. Two of our dear friends are also on their way to Saint Louis, we will see them, and all our Maison de la Gare friends again soon. I am also looking forward to meeting my new Godson, Djiby for the first time. And, it will be good to see my other Godson, Mohammed again.

A few weeks ago Babacar, a friend in Saint Louis, announced the birth of his son, Djiby. He also announced, via messenger that I was to be Djiby's Godmother. Babacar is a professional waiter at a restaurant we frequent when in Senegal. We have been friends since my first visit in 2010. 

Tijan is a longtime friend of mine, Rowan and Robbie. He is the boy I helped convince a year ago to choose to return to The Gambia to enrol in school instead attempting to migrate, via Libya and the Mediterranean to Europe. We keep in touch via messenger, communicating every few days or so. He has high school exams coming up, following a brief study break. He is on his way from The Gambia to visit us in Saint Louis. Tijan says not to worry, it is just a short trip of 10 or so hours. He and Rowan will study together, as they have in the past. (Rowan's exams begin the day after our return to Canada).

Arouna is also on his way back to Saint Louis from Kolda, where he has the the responsibility for his two younger sisters since his parents and older sister died. Arouna is Rowan's age, and in his second last year of high school. While a talibe he had astonishing determination, doing whatever it took to earn an education, all while continuing to provide a daily begging quota for his marabout. With education as his primary life goal, Arouna intends to attend university, support his sisters, and aspires to someday be president of Senegal. Or a teacher. Or a writer. He wants to change things, to help his people. But, Arouna has continuously been challenged with one hardship after another. When his parents died, far away in Kolda when Aouna was a young boy, his extended family swindled him out of his inheritance, and he remained a talibe for many more years, effectively a slave, under the thumb of his marabout. When, after years of study he went to write his final exams so he could enter high school, his marabout would not give him his identity papers in an effort to maintain control. This summer Arouna finally obtained new identity papers of his own (after years of trying) and was able to register for high school exams. He also has exams in a few weeks and plans to study with Rowan and Tijan. 

But, Arouna has a new challenge - his biggest one yet. He is not on his way back from Kolda alone. A six year old boy is with him, the son of his deceased older sister. The boy, Mohamed's father died when his was a baby, and since his mother passed he was being cared for by her best friend. But, she has just returned to France and it has fallen to Arouna to take responsibility for his nephew. There is no one else. What will become of Arouna's plans for a great education? What will become of the little boy who has only known loss and uncertainty? I pray he will not become a talibe. I know Arouna will do all he can to keep Mohamed from such a fate. For now, Arouna is putting one foot in front of the other, one day at a time. And, he has a philosophy class he cannot miss tomorrow.

As we continue our journey toward Saint Louis, driving through the palm groves and the baobab forest, soaking in the African essence, anticipation grows. Anticipation that we will soon see good friends again, and anticipation to meet new friends who will change all our lives.

Keep Karate Kicking at Maison de la Gare

 

As my daughter, Rowan, my Dad and I prepare to land in Brussels, en route to Dakar, I am thinking about the karate kids of Maison de la Gare. Will the word have gotten around that we are on our way? How many new karate students will be ready and hoping to be registered at Sor-Karate Dojo? How many will have left, to return to their villages and perhaps to their families (those that have families)? Is the system my son, Robbie and I set up on our previous visit of providing meals for the dojo karate kids twice a week running smoothly?

As a refresher on our recent progress with the karate program, here is the most recent article I wrote about it, published in Global Giving and on the Maison de la Gare website:

Souleymane led the warm up on the hot sand under the mid-day sub-Saharan African sun at Maison de la Gare. Several  dozen white-belted karateka followed his movements, copying him to the best of their ability, listening for the correct moments to kiay. When Souleymane felt the children were properly prepared, a Sensei from a local dojo, Sor-karate took over to teach the class. This could be a scene in any North American martial arts school. But these eager, attentive students are talibe, forced begging boys of Senegal.

Even more astonishing, Souleymane too is a talibe. Only two and a half years ago Souleymane was a new white belt himself, learning his first forms from the Canadian founder of this unique karate school, then thirteen year old Robbie Hughes. When Robbie and his family first arrived at Maison de la Gare with scores of karate gi's (traditional karate uniforms) and the objective of spreading Robbie's passion for Karate to the talibe, Souleymane was fascinated from the first moment. The young Canadian black belt and the teenage talibe white belt were soon inseparable. Souleymane soaked up Robbie's lessons, and it was soon apparent he had adopted Robbie's passion as his own. Souleymane was one of the first small group of talibes Robbie introduced to Sor-Karate and Sensei Ignety Ba. He registered these first karate hopefuls as members of the dojo and I guaranteed their fees, confident in Robbie's promise that he would find sponsors upon our return to Canada.

Today, Souleymane is not only a helper with the Maison de la Gare karate program, he has earned his orange belt, and he is regularly competing as part of the tournament team for the Sor-karate dojo where nearly 30 of the most dedicated Maison de la Gare ,  are now registered. He warms up the class at the centre with confidence and skill, an example to the other students. Karate has helped transform this once shy boy into a leader.  

During my most recent visit to Maison de la Gare with Robbie, Souleymane helped us make a list of the morning students attending lessons regularly at the centre that he felt were ready for the dojo, and who wanted to join. Many had been hopefully waiting since our previous visit for their chance to become a "dojo talibe.

As we gathered to walk to the dojo for the evening class, it became apparent the evening ate students meal at Maison de la Gare would not be ready in time for the kids who needed to arrive at the dojo early to be registered, which was a 20 minute walk away. I could see the concern build, stomachs growled, then the resolution settle in that this chance at becoming a member of Sor-Karate could not be missed. So, off we went with Souleymane, leading 5 hungry talibes. Souleymane and Robbie helped get the new kids oriented at the dojo, then the white belts nervously presented themselves for registration. I guaranteed payment of their fees, knowing generous karate families back home at our own dojo would be willing to help.

As Robbie and I joined this class, practicing karate alongside our friends, we were struck by the equality in the room. In the dojo all go barefoot and here there is no indication of who owns shoes and who does not. Talibes practice along side kids from regular families, families who could afford these fees. The only thing separating the karateka was their skill level. No wonder kids who beg to survive, set apart from society, are willing to forgo a certain meal for this. As the evening class progressed we were surprised by the number of times the Sensei halted the class for rests. When we questioned Sensei Ba about the frequent breaks, he explained that the talibes get dizzy because they have not eaten, and they need to rest and re-gather their strength. Robbie and I were horrified that we had not previously identified this problem. Of course, the kids, who beg daily for their food, were expending more calories during their karate practice than they consume in an entire day. The one reliable daily meal provided by Maison de la Gare had to be missed in order to attend the evening dojo practice. And, none of these children were willing to trade karate for food. To them, the lightheadedness, growling bellies, and other side effects of malnutrition feel normal, not worth remarking on. But to Robbie and I this was a solvable problem, and one we may never have realized had we not had the opportunity to train alongside our friends.

After spending several days searching for a suitable location with a sympathetic proprietor, Robbie and I made arrangements for the roughly 30 dojo talibes to have a nutritious meal at a local restaurant two afternoons a week, several hours before class on the days of heaviest karate training. In this way, the meal would not disrupt the routine at Maison de la Gare, where food is offered after the French and math classes in order to encourage education- too late for the karateka who take off for the dojo immediately after their tutoring for the day. At Maison de la Gare if a meal is given to any it must be available to all, so a meal earlier in the day at the centre just for karateka is not an option if a peaceful sense of fairness among hungry children is to prevail.

Once again, Robbie was certain we could later find enough generosity back home to pay for two weekly meals for the dojo karate talibes. We sadly remarked on the necessity to limit the meals for the 30 children to just two a week, when they practice at the dojo up to six nights a week. After all, food is a basic human right, but it is expensive. We hope that through generous donations the number of meals can be raised to at least three a week. I am excited for my next visit to Senegal, to train alongside my talibe friends once more. I, who used to take basic nutrition for granted until that fateful day training at Sor-Karate, now am very conscious that food is fuel. So too is passion. Imagine the unlimited potential of these determined, hard working, inspiring martial artists now that they are being fed by both.

What We Take for Granted

There is just never enough to eat.  But, this is the usual way of things here, for talibes and for the very poor. In fact, extreme poverty and an inability to feed one's children, let alone send them to school, is the reason most of the boys of Maison de la Gare are talibes. 

At the end of the day at Maison de la Gare, after classes are out, it is time to eat. What is offered is not much, not enough to prevent the boys from growing up stunted, or malnourished, or at risk of much worse. But, it is enough to keep them alive and to keep them going. The speed with which the kids line up at meal time is evidence enough of the importance of this food in their lives.

 Talibes enjoying their meal

The Maison de la Gare Dortoir d'Urgence offers more complete (and more expensive) meals to the runaway talibes who find refuge there. These kids can be in the worst possible shape, having been living alone on the streets, not staying too long in one place, in hiding from their marabouts. And, they do not stay too long in the Dortoir. Often just a few days, sometimes a few weeks, rarely a few months. Not long enough to make up for a lifetime of neglect and extreme malnutrition. But, we hope, it will be enough to help strengthen them and give them a chance.

We have known these children for so long that we have perhaps become accustomed to their smaller statures and thin limbs. Their empty begging bowls. To mistaking twelve year olds for eight year olds. Perhaps Robbie and I had gotten too used to leaving with the dojo talibes to arrive for training on time, before the evening food had been served at Maison de la Gare. They boys do not eat along the way. Nor do they eat after training. They just don't eat. 

training at the dojo happens nightly 

However, my eyes were openned wider than usual last week when we trained at Sor-Karate Club together with the dojo talibes. The class was challenging, testing my skill, my speed, and my Japanese. But, not my conditionning. After the warm up, class was suspended about every 10 minutes for a rest break of a minute or two. The boys were sweating heavily (so were Robbie and I, who are not used to training in over 30C, but not as much as the dojo talibes), and exhausted. Some would be dizzy or faint, needing a moment to recover.  Several of the dojo talibes astked me: "was I not tired?" Well, actually, no, I was not. Last year when Robbie was invited to lead the warm up, the dojo talibes had a hard time keeping up with him. But the end of  Robbie's intense warm up, they looked ready to drop, not ready to begin. It did not really sink in at the time, but now I ask myself: How could I have missed such an obvious issue: Some of these boys are expending more calories in this karate class than they likely consume in a day! This cannot possibly be sustainable.

 Dojo talibes waiting outside a restaurent as a late night meal is arranged

A little while ago Maison de la Gare had tried to offer a better meal at the centre to the dojo katate kids, but too many problems arose. Food is expensive, and Maison de la Gare can not afford to feed many this way. So, much jealousy and arguing arose over the preferential meals being served to some but not to others. Staff at Maison de la Gare told me: "If some eat, everyone will want to eat."  Early this week after training we bought the dojo talibes a very much appreciated good meal. I was about to do so again the next night but Robbie warned me: "be careful, we had better not encourage them to get used to eating every day".  Now stop. Think about those words. There is a terrible truth to these two statements. But, just think about the absurdity of such words when discussing nutrition for children. Or, for anyone. I fear we may have lost sight of the forest for the trees. Perhaps this is due to how we, in our own lives, take nutrition for granted. And here, being hungry is just normal. So, it would not naturally occur to raise lack of food as an issue to be solved for the karate program. Some things, many things, just are what they are. Indeed, a few of the dojo talibes had stopped doing karate for lack of enough to eat, but all that was discussed was that the numbers at the dojo had dropped. 

To better understand the nutrition issue, I spoke with some talibes, and staff at Maison de la Gare.  Traditionally talibes beg at the doors of private homes for their food, receiving a part of the family's meal of rice with vegetables, and sometimes fish, in their begging bowls. Traditionally, Aminata, the administrator at MDG explained,  talibes have had a reliable relationship with a family, known as ndiatigue, leaving their bowls before meal time, and later returning to eat a reasonsbly decent meal. But, this explanation does not seem to jive with the stunted statures, quick susceptibility to disease, and mad rush to the food line at the end of the day. Upon further questionning, she admitted that perhaps only about 20% of talibes are lucky enough to have such arrangements today. In fact, staff member, Noel Coly adds, many talibes arrive at the MDG Centre each day not having eating anything at all. Noel explains it is somewhat easier for the young ones to be successful begging for food door to door, or to find a ndiatigue areangement, but very difficult for older kids. However, the younger talibes often have other issues with food. MDG's nurse, Awa explained that young talibes are often required to return their begging bowls to their marabouts who collect the food. Marabouts then retain the best for their own families, returning a small handful to the talibe child. She and the others explain that the young kids without ndiatigue must beg to 10, or 15 or more homes to accumulate a handful of food, or perhaps some cookies. Awa also confirmed that the older ones eat even less, usually just bread and coffee that they purchase in the market in the morning with money they may have earned in excess of their begging quotas, known as versements. 

My friend Arouna, a talibe for many years, now in high school and on staff as a talibe in transition with Maison de la Gare, explained that there are just too many talibes in Saint Louis to be supported by the traditional ngiatigue system. In fact, a recent survey conducted by MDG pegs the number of begging talibes in this city at about 15,000! A few thousand of them flow through the doors of Maison de la Gare. A few hundred of them eat at MDG on a regular basis.

The kids rarely eat fruit, according to Aminata. Infrequently they may buy a piece of fruit for 50cfa if they have extra money. Ocassionaly Maison de la Gare can provide some fruit from the garden, but not regularly by any means. Protein is a rare luxury. Bread and white rice, with some small amount of cooked vegetables if they are lucky sustain these children. Of the 23 older talibes who train at the dojo, only one or two have ndiatigue arrangements. And, four are staff in the talibes in transition program with means to feed themselves a bit better. The rest go hungry. My friend Yaya is from The Gambia and has been a talibe since he was 10 years old. He is now 18, a dojo talibe with a ndiatigue. Yaya considers himself lucky, eating more than most, and considers himself well fed. But, he is very small for his age, and needs the regular breaks offered in karate training. It occurs to me that we have very different perceptions of the term: Well fed.

   Robbie and Yaya share a passion for karate

Finally, two years since starting the karate program at Maison de la Gare, Robbie and I fully realized the implications of these karate kids not having enough to eat. And, that the karate dojo schedule reduced their limited access to food even further. And, that this is a problem we could solve, now that we were standing back, viewing the full forest! We discussed the problem with MDG president, Issa Kouyate. He confirmed how problematic it would be for Maison de la Gare to provide separate meals at a separate time, but he appreciated the problem. Issa suggested we find a local eating place where the kids could go, near the dojo, where a meal could be waiting for them on a regular basis.

dojo talibes testing the fare of a local restaurent, thorouly enjoying the experience

Robbie and I tested a couple of possibilities, always with some of our dojo karate friends along for quality assurance. We enjoined our friend Mapate, a long time friend and supported of Maison de la Gare, to help us find a restaurent and negotiate a price. At one point when it appeared we might not be able to find a reliable arrangement for a reasonable price, Mapate offerred his own home, suggesting we hire a local home cook to make the regular meals. In the end, we securred an arrangement with a restaurent located between the dojo and Maison de la Gare. The meal, dojo talibe-approved, will consist of a large samosa-like sandwhich, with fried eggs, sauteed onions and potatoes added inside. 

 Mamadou Ba checking out a fataya complet

The restaurent owner will have 23 of these fataya complets ready at the appointed hour, two days a week. He has the list of the approved 23 karate students, and it will be updated as needed, as directed by Sensei Ignety Ba. Maison de la Gare will regularly recieve a bill, which I guaranteed we would find a way to pay. 

 Robbie with dojo talibes in the restaurant hired to 

provide regular meals

Robbie and I determined that the meal should be consumed in the late afternoon, a few hours before training, to allow time for digestion and to provide the required energy to get through class. Robbie knows first hand what happens when you give 100% to a karate workout within an hour of having eaten. Not good. And, nightly karate classes may conflict with the evening food distribution at MDG, but, French classes and other programs from about 5 until 7pm would still be available to them. 4pm is also a slower time for the restaurant, perfect! The meals will be served the days of the heaviest karate training, led by Sensei Ignety Ba. Sensei, responsible for maintaining a current list, will then also be able to track the kids attendence at the dojo on meal days. 

 

 Sensei Ignety Ba with some of the dojo talibes at Maison de la Gare

Each meal costs a mere 500 francs, or about $1.12. Thats only about $52 per week, $2680 per year to change so much for these 23 kids. Now living with a passion will no longer come with sacrifice. I expect within a short time the number of kids regularly attending the dojo will rise to the full 29 spots that donors have sponsored. That will increase the cost, I hope. And, I would love to be able to afford to add Monday to the timetable of available restaurant meals for the dojo talibes. After all, the kids train every night but Sunday. And imagine, some day it may even be possible that Robbie's sad analysis could change, and that the karate kids could come to expect to eat a good meal every day. Why not dream bigger, maybe all the kids who visit Maison de la Gare will some day come to expect to eat well enough to prevent them from growing up stunted and malnourished. Insha'Allah!

Tournament Day - the Only Thing Better than Grading Day

 

   

Last weekend five dojo talibes travelled to the region of Kaolack with Sensei Ignety Ba for their first National karate tournament. This was made possible by a donation from Douvris Martial Arts Barrhaven and Brigitte Pellerin's pledge to the Maison de la Gare karate program from sales of her book, Not Just for Kicks, Dublin 2016. The eager competitors and their Sensei left in the early hours of the morning,  meeting to catch the bus at 4am, after we trained together at the dojo the night before. The WKF tournament was Saturday and Sunday morning. Not yet ready to perform kata at a National level, the boys were there to fight. And, for kumite. 

Bouaro and Omar both won their first fights. But, neither moved on from the second, and therefore they did not place this time. The kumite competition was strong as well, and no one went home with medals.

 Omar in the red belt at Kaolack National Tournament

 The drive home across much of Senegal Sunday afternoon lasted through the night. The competitors had not slept for several days and were exhausted Monday when I saw them at the Maison de la Gare centre. They also seemed somewhat despondent about not bringing home any hardware. But I could not have been prouder of each of them. Sensei Ignety Ba also was proud, and reminded them of the importance of competition.  He pointed out they were lucky to be able to attend a National competition, as most in their dojo, even the regular members, had never been, due to the prohibitive cost. Ignety told them defeat makes you train harder, and to focus on what needs improving, and it helps you to be humble as all the best competitors must be. He  reminded the young men it can take years of training and competing to begin to win consistently, and that no competition is ever wasted.  I have heard these same words from our own Master John Douvris, coach of the Douvris Tournament Team and the WKC Canadian Karate Team. Wisdom.

Robbie and I had hoped to run a tournament at the centre for the young karate kids who attend day classes. We were delighted to discover that Issa Kouyate, President of Maison de la Gare had forseen such a day and had purchased a stock of karate medals as prizes. Robbie had also brought many Douvris tee-shirts from home to use as prizes and others had been donated by Douvris members. Inspired by the dojo tournament team, the first in-house Maison de la Gare tournament would be on!

 

Admirers gather around the prize table

We kept the mats that were rented for the Grading Ceremony until Friday, the day of the tournament (and of our departure). Friday morning dawned. The mats were layed out, a prize table arranged, and as the karate kids began to arrive they put on their gi's and mulled around, not knowing what to expect, but sensing that something was about to happen that would put them in the spotlight. Djembe drums were pulled out, and music began. Crowds gathered around the prize table, admiring the medals, the tee-shirts, and the juice drinks, envious of the karate kids who would be competing for these rewards.

the kata scoresheet

 

Sensei Gora Seck, a WKF referee who generously volunteered to help us, arranged a score sheet for kata and another for kihon. There were 18 competitors, 18 medals, with the winning four of each group receiving a yellow ribbon for their medals, a Douvris shirt, and a juice. The competitors who did not place would receive medals with a red ribbon and juice. The grand champion, kata was presented with a special medal and Robbie's 2014 WKC World Championship sweater from Dublin (where he had competed with the Canadian Karate Team).

The two teams were lined up, salutes were exchanged, and the competition was on. Sensei Gora Seck was assisted by Bouaro, calling each pair of competitors up in turn, starting with kata. Each boy was given either a red or a blue belt to wear during his performance, just as in WKF sanctioned tournaments. Some of the belts were so big and the boys so small that they dragged on the ground. But, the boys were clearly proud to be wearing them. After bowing to the judge and to each other, each performed his kata. There was a wide variety of skill level, but each competitor seemed equally nervous, excited and proud to be on the mat, laying down his best performance, wearing a red or blue belt. They lined up again and Sensei indicated his decision with the referrees flags, red or blue.

 

With each win, a competitor was eliminated. Eventually a final set of four remained for kata and for kihon, the finalists. A few performances stood out from the rest, earning  prolonged applause from the appreciative audience. 

 Amadou Diallo's performing his winning kihon's

For kihon the clear winner was Amadou Diallo, an eight year old (he thinks) who has been coming to karate classes for over a year. 

It is fitting that this boy's participation in karate has been sponsoured by Martina Couture and her dojo Douvris MA Barrhaven, because she contributed to making this tournamnet possible. The kata winner was Samba Diouf. Pride beamed from his face as Robbie presented him with his well deserved medal and his world championship sweater. 

 Robbie with Samba, kata champion

After the medals had been presented the kids again lined up for a final bow and a further round of extended applause. We heard many little talibes who had gathered to watch telling each other and anyone who would listen that they too were going to join karate. Our objective had been to reward the kids who have been working so hard against such terrible odds, coming to classes as diligently as possible, developing real skill and building a true passon. And, to motivate and inspire them to continue to do so. Mission accomplished, and more! And, I have no doubt we will need to bring even more karate gi's on our next visit to Maison de la Gare.

Robbie and Sensei Gora Seck congratulate the competitors 

Kalidou - A Talibe Success Story

 

Kalidou's story with Maison de la Gare began in 2008. He was 6 or 7 years old at the time, he is not sure. 

From Kolda, in the Cassamance region of Senegal, Kalidou and his two older brothers were sent together to his marabout to be talibes in Saint Louis, begging for their own living as well as a quota of money for the marabout, but also to learn the Quran. His younger sister remainded in the village with his parents. His family are farmers, and Kalidou remembers that their life was very hard. Last year Kalidou returned to his village for the first time since leaving in 2008.  Kalidou's older brothers returned to Kolda in 2011, having completed their memorization of the Quran. Kalidou had finally completed his memorization of the Quran, and it is tradition to return to one's village at this time. He says he did not recognize anyone but his mother, and they also did not recognize him. When Kalidou saw how much his village and the people he knew as a child had changed, and how difficult life there remained, he realized his home was now in Saint Louis, and his family is Maison de la Gare. Nevertheless, he will continue to send money to his parents when he can. It is Kalidou's hope to someday be able to bring his mother and father to Saint Louis to live with him, as he does not know how they will survive as his father ages and can no longer live the difficult life of a farmer. He also hopes to someday marry a girl from Cassamence (of his parent's choosing) and to bring her back to live in Saint Louis.

When Kalidou first arrived in Saint Louis he was lucky to soon meet Issa Kouyate and Maison de la Gare. He attended French classes at Maison de la Gare's previous location, the old, run down train depot near the Pont Faidherbe. 

 

Kalidou at the old train station with MDG

My sister Lisa and a fellow volunteer, Zoe encountered Kalidou at Maison de la Gare in 2008 when they were teaching French. Each time I return to Saint Louis, Kalidou askes me if I have news of Zoe. He remembers her fondly as his first teacher, and he thinks of her and misses her to this day. Last year I suggested that Kalidou send her a video message. He prepared his remarks for days, thinking carefully of what he wanted to tell her. Kalidou is very shy, but sending Zoe a greeting was clearly very important to him. 

Watch Kalidou greet Zoe here.

Kalidou  remains shy and humble to this day. But, his confidence is growing. Kalidou is a member of Maison de la Gare association. At the annual general meeting yesterday, when called upon to comment, Kalidou adressed the large group with eloquence.

 

Kalidou speaking at the annual general meeting of MDG

Kalidou learned French and quite good English at the classes offered by Maison de la Gare. Several years ago Maison de la Gare arranged for Kalidou to begin to learn the craft of couture, and later to apprentice as a taylor. He has been working for the past year with the tailor Baka, at the shop Baka Fashion. Baka tells me Kalidou should be ready to complete his apprenticeship in about one year, advancing to become a taylor in his own right. An apprenticeship of about 3 or 4 years is typical. However, Kalidou was already oriented somewhat to his craft when he began his apprenticeship. Indeed, Baka says Kalidou is ready to start to transition and could earn money by having a sewing machine of his own at home. Kalidou spends about three hours each day apprenticing.

 

Kalidou with the taylor, Baka

After his work at Baka Fashion, Kalidou visits his daara to study the Quran with his Marabout, Seringe Mansour. Although Kalidou has memorized the Quran already, he still feels he has much to learn about being a good Muslim. Personally, I think he is already one of the best I have met. 

 

Kalidou at his sewing machine at Baka Fashion

When Kalidou is finished at his Daara he comes to Maison de la Gare, where is is now working as a talibe in transition in the role of assistant teacher, instructing English. He also spends the weekends with Maison de la Gare, helping out however he can. He is an example to other talibes. Kalidou demonstrates that there is hope that talibes can realistically aspire to better lives.

Kalidou with Issa, many years ago

When asked what Maison de la Gare has meant to him, Kalidou  says he was really helped in learning English and French. Maison de la Gare has allowed him to remain in Saint Louis and to train for a trade. To Maison de la Gare, Kalidou says: "Thanks for my life. It is good."

 

Kalidou teaching an English class at MDG

Grading Day!

 

The yellow belt candidates

They waited  together nervously outside the dojo, in the night, for their turns to enter, salute their Sensei, and begin the test to advance to yellow belts. One by one they were called in. The waiting students could not see what transpired inside, adding to thier growing anxiety. First the salute.  Then, Sensei Ignety Ba began to call out various blocks and strikes in Japonese. The kids were expected to respond immediately, and acurately. 

Thirteen Maison de la Gare dojo talibes had been invited to grade for yellow, along with five non-MDG students of Sor-karate Club.. Before the test began, Sensei Ignety Ba explained to the candidates that belts are earned, not gifted. Months of dedication is required. Forms must be not only memorized, but performed correctly. Japonese terms for each block  and strike must be known intimately enough to respond accurately and without hesitation when called upon. Kumites must be precise and forceful. Salutes and kiayes must never be missed at the right moments.

 

The candidates grading at the dojo

As each candidate entered in turn Robbie and I watched in silence, seated beside Sensei Ignety Ba as they saluted their Sensei and awaited instructions. Many were sweating with anxiety. I was nearly shaking myself, my own nerves getting the better of me as I imagined myself in their shoes. I wanted so much for each and every one to pass. But, I began to sense from Ignety a premonition in his subtle demonstrations of disapproval, impatience, or pride in students who's gradings were progressing well or not as well. A few were asked to leave before having performed Kumite, a bad sign.

Arouna and Ismaila performing Kumite during grading 

It took several hours to grade the 18 candidates, then Sensei gathered the candidates again. He again reminded them that belts must be earned by demonstrated hard work, respect and skill, then called upon the boys one by one. My heart sank as the first candidate, my beloved Arouna Kande was not passed. Then the second, Ismaila also not passed. But then, the first pass, for Amadou Sadio Diallo! Dijibi Balde, pass! Oumar Sane, pass! Mamadou Balde, pass! Souleymane Ba, pass! Boybacar Ndiaye, pass! Issa Ba, pass! But then, Moussa Ba, not passed. Then Yaya not only passed, but was praised as excellent, the star of the dojo! Amadou Sadio Camara and Abdoulaye Diallo sadly also did not pass. None of the five non MDG candidates passed either. In the end, eight earned their yellow belts, all from Maison de la Gare. Sensei informed the MDG candidates who had not passed that they were close, so they would be given the opportunity to test again in only another month, much shorter than the usual wait.

As we later walked away together from the dojo the atmosphere was a mixture of quiet disappointment and elated celebration. My own feelings were just as mixed.

A day after the celebration and heartbreak of the yellow belt grading a presentation ceremony was held for all the dojo talibe yellow belt candidates at Maison de la Gare. I rented mats, which the boys transported by taxi and set up at Maison de la Gare. Tables were carried out from classrooms and set up as a head table. All the candidates, passed or otherwise put on their gi's and lined up, respectfully awaiting their Sensei. 

 

Sensei Ignety Ba with the new yellow belts, before the presentation

First Sensei Ignety Ba invited Noel Coly of Maison de la Gare to address the crowd. Then he himself spoke of the importance of service, referencing Douvris MA, Robbie, my Dad and I and Maison de la Gare. He spoke of perseverance, referencing the hard work of the talibes in pursuing their passion for karate.  I could only marvel at the echo of his words. The Douvris MA word of the monh this month is Service. Last month it was: Perserverance. Then Sensei Ignety Ba, assisted by Sensei Seck, called upon members of Maison de la Gare, Dad, Robbie and myself to present certificates of grading to each candidate in turn. Even those who did not pass received two stripes on their white belts and certificates, as Sensei was confident they would soon earn them. As the successful candidates were called up to receive their belts, the abundant joy and pride could not be contained. 

 

Boubacar Ndiaye being congratulated by Ignety Ba

 

Issa Kouyate presenting Robbie a certificate of honour on behalf 

of Master John Douvris

Then a surprise, I was called upon to receive a certificate of honour on behalf of Sensei Martina Couture, of Douvris MA Barrhaven. It was granted for her precious contribution to sport and the social good in Saint Louis and to the advancement of Maison de la Gare. Robbie was called up to receive a similar certificate of honour on behalf of Master John Douvris of Douvris Martial Arts. Then Dad received a certificate, then Robbie, and then so did I, accompanied by lasting applause. It was an overwhelmingly proud, emotional moment for all of us.

 

Sonia presenting belt and grading certificate to Issa Ba

As we all proudly gathered together for a photo opportunity, I was reminded again that when practicing karate, these boys are no longer talibes. They are martial artists.