What We Take for Granted

There is just never enough to eat.  But, this is the usual way of things here, for talibes and for the very poor. In fact, extreme poverty and an inability to feed one's children, let alone send them to school, is the reason most of the boys of Maison de la Gare are talibes. 

At the end of the day at Maison de la Gare, after classes are out, it is time to eat. What is offered is not much, not enough to prevent the boys from growing up stunted, or malnourished, or at risk of much worse. But, it is enough to keep them alive and to keep them going. The speed with which the kids line up at meal time is evidence enough of the importance of this food in their lives.

 Talibes enjoying their meal

The Maison de la Gare Dortoir d'Urgence offers more complete (and more expensive) meals to the runaway talibes who find refuge there. These kids can be in the worst possible shape, having been living alone on the streets, not staying too long in one place, in hiding from their marabouts. And, they do not stay too long in the Dortoir. Often just a few days, sometimes a few weeks, rarely a few months. Not long enough to make up for a lifetime of neglect and extreme malnutrition. But, we hope, it will be enough to help strengthen them and give them a chance.

We have known these children for so long that we have perhaps become accustomed to their smaller statures and thin limbs. Their empty begging bowls. To mistaking twelve year olds for eight year olds. Perhaps Robbie and I had gotten too used to leaving with the dojo talibes to arrive for training on time, before the evening food had been served at Maison de la Gare. They boys do not eat along the way. Nor do they eat after training. They just don't eat. 

training at the dojo happens nightly 

However, my eyes were openned wider than usual last week when we trained at Sor-Karate Club together with the dojo talibes. The class was challenging, testing my skill, my speed, and my Japanese. But, not my conditionning. After the warm up, class was suspended about every 10 minutes for a rest break of a minute or two. The boys were sweating heavily (so were Robbie and I, who are not used to training in over 30C, but not as much as the dojo talibes), and exhausted. Some would be dizzy or faint, needing a moment to recover.  Several of the dojo talibes astked me: "was I not tired?" Well, actually, no, I was not. Last year when Robbie was invited to lead the warm up, the dojo talibes had a hard time keeping up with him. But the end of  Robbie's intense warm up, they looked ready to drop, not ready to begin. It did not really sink in at the time, but now I ask myself: How could I have missed such an obvious issue: Some of these boys are expending more calories in this karate class than they likely consume in a day! This cannot possibly be sustainable.

 Dojo talibes waiting outside a restaurent as a late night meal is arranged

A little while ago Maison de la Gare had tried to offer a better meal at the centre to the dojo katate kids, but too many problems arose. Food is expensive, and Maison de la Gare can not afford to feed many this way. So, much jealousy and arguing arose over the preferential meals being served to some but not to others. Staff at Maison de la Gare told me: "If some eat, everyone will want to eat."  Early this week after training we bought the dojo talibes a very much appreciated good meal. I was about to do so again the next night but Robbie warned me: "be careful, we had better not encourage them to get used to eating every day".  Now stop. Think about those words. There is a terrible truth to these two statements. But, just think about the absurdity of such words when discussing nutrition for children. Or, for anyone. I fear we may have lost sight of the forest for the trees. Perhaps this is due to how we, in our own lives, take nutrition for granted. And here, being hungry is just normal. So, it would not naturally occur to raise lack of food as an issue to be solved for the karate program. Some things, many things, just are what they are. Indeed, a few of the dojo talibes had stopped doing karate for lack of enough to eat, but all that was discussed was that the numbers at the dojo had dropped. 

To better understand the nutrition issue, I spoke with some talibes, and staff at Maison de la Gare.  Traditionally talibes beg at the doors of private homes for their food, receiving a part of the family's meal of rice with vegetables, and sometimes fish, in their begging bowls. Traditionally, Aminata, the administrator at MDG explained,  talibes have had a reliable relationship with a family, known as ndiatigue, leaving their bowls before meal time, and later returning to eat a reasonsbly decent meal. But, this explanation does not seem to jive with the stunted statures, quick susceptibility to disease, and mad rush to the food line at the end of the day. Upon further questionning, she admitted that perhaps only about 20% of talibes are lucky enough to have such arrangements today. In fact, staff member, Noel Coly adds, many talibes arrive at the MDG Centre each day not having eating anything at all. Noel explains it is somewhat easier for the young ones to be successful begging for food door to door, or to find a ndiatigue areangement, but very difficult for older kids. However, the younger talibes often have other issues with food. MDG's nurse, Awa explained that young talibes are often required to return their begging bowls to their marabouts who collect the food. Marabouts then retain the best for their own families, returning a small handful to the talibe child. She and the others explain that the young kids without ndiatigue must beg to 10, or 15 or more homes to accumulate a handful of food, or perhaps some cookies. Awa also confirmed that the older ones eat even less, usually just bread and coffee that they purchase in the market in the morning with money they may have earned in excess of their begging quotas, known as versements. 

My friend Arouna, a talibe for many years, now in high school and on staff as a talibe in transition with Maison de la Gare, explained that there are just too many talibes in Saint Louis to be supported by the traditional ngiatigue system. In fact, a recent survey conducted by MDG pegs the number of begging talibes in this city at about 15,000! A few thousand of them flow through the doors of Maison de la Gare. A few hundred of them eat at MDG on a regular basis.

The kids rarely eat fruit, according to Aminata. Infrequently they may buy a piece of fruit for 50cfa if they have extra money. Ocassionaly Maison de la Gare can provide some fruit from the garden, but not regularly by any means. Protein is a rare luxury. Bread and white rice, with some small amount of cooked vegetables if they are lucky sustain these children. Of the 23 older talibes who train at the dojo, only one or two have ndiatigue arrangements. And, four are staff in the talibes in transition program with means to feed themselves a bit better. The rest go hungry. My friend Yaya is from The Gambia and has been a talibe since he was 10 years old. He is now 18, a dojo talibe with a ndiatigue. Yaya considers himself lucky, eating more than most, and considers himself well fed. But, he is very small for his age, and needs the regular breaks offered in karate training. It occurs to me that we have very different perceptions of the term: Well fed.

   Robbie and Yaya share a passion for karate

Finally, two years since starting the karate program at Maison de la Gare, Robbie and I fully realized the implications of these karate kids not having enough to eat. And, that the karate dojo schedule reduced their limited access to food even further. And, that this is a problem we could solve, now that we were standing back, viewing the full forest! We discussed the problem with MDG president, Issa Kouyate. He confirmed how problematic it would be for Maison de la Gare to provide separate meals at a separate time, but he appreciated the problem. Issa suggested we find a local eating place where the kids could go, near the dojo, where a meal could be waiting for them on a regular basis.

dojo talibes testing the fare of a local restaurent, thorouly enjoying the experience

Robbie and I tested a couple of possibilities, always with some of our dojo karate friends along for quality assurance. We enjoined our friend Mapate, a long time friend and supported of Maison de la Gare, to help us find a restaurent and negotiate a price. At one point when it appeared we might not be able to find a reliable arrangement for a reasonable price, Mapate offerred his own home, suggesting we hire a local home cook to make the regular meals. In the end, we securred an arrangement with a restaurent located between the dojo and Maison de la Gare. The meal, dojo talibe-approved, will consist of a large samosa-like sandwhich, with fried eggs, sauteed onions and potatoes added inside. 

 Mamadou Ba checking out a fataya complet

The restaurent owner will have 23 of these fataya complets ready at the appointed hour, two days a week. He has the list of the approved 23 karate students, and it will be updated as needed, as directed by Sensei Ignety Ba. Maison de la Gare will regularly recieve a bill, which I guaranteed we would find a way to pay. 

 Robbie with dojo talibes in the restaurant hired to 

provide regular meals

Robbie and I determined that the meal should be consumed in the late afternoon, a few hours before training, to allow time for digestion and to provide the required energy to get through class. Robbie knows first hand what happens when you give 100% to a karate workout within an hour of having eaten. Not good. And, nightly karate classes may conflict with the evening food distribution at MDG, but, French classes and other programs from about 5 until 7pm would still be available to them. 4pm is also a slower time for the restaurant, perfect! The meals will be served the days of the heaviest karate training, led by Sensei Ignety Ba. Sensei, responsible for maintaining a current list, will then also be able to track the kids attendence at the dojo on meal days. 

 

 Sensei Ignety Ba with some of the dojo talibes at Maison de la Gare

Each meal costs a mere 500 francs, or about $1.12. Thats only about $52 per week, $2680 per year to change so much for these 23 kids. Now living with a passion will no longer come with sacrifice. I expect within a short time the number of kids regularly attending the dojo will rise to the full 29 spots that donors have sponsored. That will increase the cost, I hope. And, I would love to be able to afford to add Monday to the timetable of available restaurant meals for the dojo talibes. After all, the kids train every night but Sunday. And imagine, some day it may even be possible that Robbie's sad analysis could change, and that the karate kids could come to expect to eat a good meal every day. Why not dream bigger, maybe all the kids who visit Maison de la Gare will some day come to expect to eat well enough to prevent them from growing up stunted and malnourished. Insha'Allah!

Tournament Day - the Only Thing Better than Grading Day

 

   

Last weekend five dojo talibes travelled to the region of Kaolack with Sensei Ignety Ba for their first National karate tournament. This was made possible by a donation from Douvris Martial Arts Barrhaven and Brigitte Pellerin's pledge to the Maison de la Gare karate program from sales of her book, Not Just for Kicks, Dublin 2016. The eager competitors and their Sensei left in the early hours of the morning,  meeting to catch the bus at 4am, after we trained together at the dojo the night before. The WKF tournament was Saturday and Sunday morning. Not yet ready to perform kata at a National level, the boys were there to fight. And, for kumite. 

Bouaro and Omar both won their first fights. But, neither moved on from the second, and therefore they did not place this time. The kumite competition was strong as well, and no one went home with medals.

 Omar in the red belt at Kaolack National Tournament

 The drive home across much of Senegal Sunday afternoon lasted through the night. The competitors had not slept for several days and were exhausted Monday when I saw them at the Maison de la Gare centre. They also seemed somewhat despondent about not bringing home any hardware. But I could not have been prouder of each of them. Sensei Ignety Ba also was proud, and reminded them of the importance of competition.  He pointed out they were lucky to be able to attend a National competition, as most in their dojo, even the regular members, had never been, due to the prohibitive cost. Ignety told them defeat makes you train harder, and to focus on what needs improving, and it helps you to be humble as all the best competitors must be. He  reminded the young men it can take years of training and competing to begin to win consistently, and that no competition is ever wasted.  I have heard these same words from our own Master John Douvris, coach of the Douvris Tournament Team and the WKC Canadian Karate Team. Wisdom.

Robbie and I had hoped to run a tournament at the centre for the young karate kids who attend day classes. We were delighted to discover that Issa Kouyate, President of Maison de la Gare had forseen such a day and had purchased a stock of karate medals as prizes. Robbie had also brought many Douvris tee-shirts from home to use as prizes and others had been donated by Douvris members. Inspired by the dojo tournament team, the first in-house Maison de la Gare tournament would be on!

 

Admirers gather around the prize table

We kept the mats that were rented for the Grading Ceremony until Friday, the day of the tournament (and of our departure). Friday morning dawned. The mats were layed out, a prize table arranged, and as the karate kids began to arrive they put on their gi's and mulled around, not knowing what to expect, but sensing that something was about to happen that would put them in the spotlight. Djembe drums were pulled out, and music began. Crowds gathered around the prize table, admiring the medals, the tee-shirts, and the juice drinks, envious of the karate kids who would be competing for these rewards.

the kata scoresheet

 

Sensei Gora Seck, a WKF referee who generously volunteered to help us, arranged a score sheet for kata and another for kihon. There were 18 competitors, 18 medals, with the winning four of each group receiving a yellow ribbon for their medals, a Douvris shirt, and a juice. The competitors who did not place would receive medals with a red ribbon and juice. The grand champion, kata was presented with a special medal and Robbie's 2014 WKC World Championship sweater from Dublin (where he had competed with the Canadian Karate Team).

The two teams were lined up, salutes were exchanged, and the competition was on. Sensei Gora Seck was assisted by Bouaro, calling each pair of competitors up in turn, starting with kata. Each boy was given either a red or a blue belt to wear during his performance, just as in WKF sanctioned tournaments. Some of the belts were so big and the boys so small that they dragged on the ground. But, the boys were clearly proud to be wearing them. After bowing to the judge and to each other, each performed his kata. There was a wide variety of skill level, but each competitor seemed equally nervous, excited and proud to be on the mat, laying down his best performance, wearing a red or blue belt. They lined up again and Sensei indicated his decision with the referrees flags, red or blue.

 

With each win, a competitor was eliminated. Eventually a final set of four remained for kata and for kihon, the finalists. A few performances stood out from the rest, earning  prolonged applause from the appreciative audience. 

 Amadou Diallo's performing his winning kihon's

For kihon the clear winner was Amadou Diallo, an eight year old (he thinks) who has been coming to karate classes for over a year. 

It is fitting that this boy's participation in karate has been sponsoured by Martina Couture and her dojo Douvris MA Barrhaven, because she contributed to making this tournamnet possible. The kata winner was Samba Diouf. Pride beamed from his face as Robbie presented him with his well deserved medal and his world championship sweater. 

 Robbie with Samba, kata champion

After the medals had been presented the kids again lined up for a final bow and a further round of extended applause. We heard many little talibes who had gathered to watch telling each other and anyone who would listen that they too were going to join karate. Our objective had been to reward the kids who have been working so hard against such terrible odds, coming to classes as diligently as possible, developing real skill and building a true passon. And, to motivate and inspire them to continue to do so. Mission accomplished, and more! And, I have no doubt we will need to bring even more karate gi's on our next visit to Maison de la Gare.

Robbie and Sensei Gora Seck congratulate the competitors 

Kalidou - A Talibe Success Story

 

Kalidou's story with Maison de la Gare began in 2008. He was 6 or 7 years old at the time, he is not sure. 

From Kolda, in the Cassamance region of Senegal, Kalidou and his two older brothers were sent together to his marabout to be talibes in Saint Louis, begging for their own living as well as a quota of money for the marabout, but also to learn the Quran. His younger sister remainded in the village with his parents. His family are farmers, and Kalidou remembers that their life was very hard. Last year Kalidou returned to his village for the first time since leaving in 2008.  Kalidou's older brothers returned to Kolda in 2011, having completed their memorization of the Quran. Kalidou had finally completed his memorization of the Quran, and it is tradition to return to one's village at this time. He says he did not recognize anyone but his mother, and they also did not recognize him. When Kalidou saw how much his village and the people he knew as a child had changed, and how difficult life there remained, he realized his home was now in Saint Louis, and his family is Maison de la Gare. Nevertheless, he will continue to send money to his parents when he can. It is Kalidou's hope to someday be able to bring his mother and father to Saint Louis to live with him, as he does not know how they will survive as his father ages and can no longer live the difficult life of a farmer. He also hopes to someday marry a girl from Cassamence (of his parent's choosing) and to bring her back to live in Saint Louis.

When Kalidou first arrived in Saint Louis he was lucky to soon meet Issa Kouyate and Maison de la Gare. He attended French classes at Maison de la Gare's previous location, the old, run down train depot near the Pont Faidherbe. 

 

Kalidou at the old train station with MDG

My sister Lisa and a fellow volunteer, Zoe encountered Kalidou at Maison de la Gare in 2008 when they were teaching French. Each time I return to Saint Louis, Kalidou askes me if I have news of Zoe. He remembers her fondly as his first teacher, and he thinks of her and misses her to this day. Last year I suggested that Kalidou send her a video message. He prepared his remarks for days, thinking carefully of what he wanted to tell her. Kalidou is very shy, but sending Zoe a greeting was clearly very important to him. 

Watch Kalidou greet Zoe here.

Kalidou  remains shy and humble to this day. But, his confidence is growing. Kalidou is a member of Maison de la Gare association. At the annual general meeting yesterday, when called upon to comment, Kalidou adressed the large group with eloquence.

 

Kalidou speaking at the annual general meeting of MDG

Kalidou learned French and quite good English at the classes offered by Maison de la Gare. Several years ago Maison de la Gare arranged for Kalidou to begin to learn the craft of couture, and later to apprentice as a taylor. He has been working for the past year with the tailor Baka, at the shop Baka Fashion. Baka tells me Kalidou should be ready to complete his apprenticeship in about one year, advancing to become a taylor in his own right. An apprenticeship of about 3 or 4 years is typical. However, Kalidou was already oriented somewhat to his craft when he began his apprenticeship. Indeed, Baka says Kalidou is ready to start to transition and could earn money by having a sewing machine of his own at home. Kalidou spends about three hours each day apprenticing.

 

Kalidou with the taylor, Baka

After his work at Baka Fashion, Kalidou visits his daara to study the Quran with his Marabout, Seringe Mansour. Although Kalidou has memorized the Quran already, he still feels he has much to learn about being a good Muslim. Personally, I think he is already one of the best I have met. 

 

Kalidou at his sewing machine at Baka Fashion

When Kalidou is finished at his Daara he comes to Maison de la Gare, where is is now working as a talibe in transition in the role of assistant teacher, instructing English. He also spends the weekends with Maison de la Gare, helping out however he can. He is an example to other talibes. Kalidou demonstrates that there is hope that talibes can realistically aspire to better lives.

Kalidou with Issa, many years ago

When asked what Maison de la Gare has meant to him, Kalidou  says he was really helped in learning English and French. Maison de la Gare has allowed him to remain in Saint Louis and to train for a trade. To Maison de la Gare, Kalidou says: "Thanks for my life. It is good."

 

Kalidou teaching an English class at MDG

Grading Day!

 

The yellow belt candidates

They waited  together nervously outside the dojo, in the night, for their turns to enter, salute their Sensei, and begin the test to advance to yellow belts. One by one they were called in. The waiting students could not see what transpired inside, adding to thier growing anxiety. First the salute.  Then, Sensei Ignety Ba began to call out various blocks and strikes in Japonese. The kids were expected to respond immediately, and acurately. 

Thirteen Maison de la Gare dojo talibes had been invited to grade for yellow, along with five non-MDG students of Sor-karate Club.. Before the test began, Sensei Ignety Ba explained to the candidates that belts are earned, not gifted. Months of dedication is required. Forms must be not only memorized, but performed correctly. Japonese terms for each block  and strike must be known intimately enough to respond accurately and without hesitation when called upon. Kumites must be precise and forceful. Salutes and kiayes must never be missed at the right moments.

 

The candidates grading at the dojo

As each candidate entered in turn Robbie and I watched in silence, seated beside Sensei Ignety Ba as they saluted their Sensei and awaited instructions. Many were sweating with anxiety. I was nearly shaking myself, my own nerves getting the better of me as I imagined myself in their shoes. I wanted so much for each and every one to pass. But, I began to sense from Ignety a premonition in his subtle demonstrations of disapproval, impatience, or pride in students who's gradings were progressing well or not as well. A few were asked to leave before having performed Kumite, a bad sign.

Arouna and Ismaila performing Kumite during grading 

It took several hours to grade the 18 candidates, then Sensei gathered the candidates again. He again reminded them that belts must be earned by demonstrated hard work, respect and skill, then called upon the boys one by one. My heart sank as the first candidate, my beloved Arouna Kande was not passed. Then the second, Ismaila also not passed. But then, the first pass, for Amadou Sadio Diallo! Dijibi Balde, pass! Oumar Sane, pass! Mamadou Balde, pass! Souleymane Ba, pass! Boybacar Ndiaye, pass! Issa Ba, pass! But then, Moussa Ba, not passed. Then Yaya not only passed, but was praised as excellent, the star of the dojo! Amadou Sadio Camara and Abdoulaye Diallo sadly also did not pass. None of the five non MDG candidates passed either. In the end, eight earned their yellow belts, all from Maison de la Gare. Sensei informed the MDG candidates who had not passed that they were close, so they would be given the opportunity to test again in only another month, much shorter than the usual wait.

As we later walked away together from the dojo the atmosphere was a mixture of quiet disappointment and elated celebration. My own feelings were just as mixed.

A day after the celebration and heartbreak of the yellow belt grading a presentation ceremony was held for all the dojo talibe yellow belt candidates at Maison de la Gare. I rented mats, which the boys transported by taxi and set up at Maison de la Gare. Tables were carried out from classrooms and set up as a head table. All the candidates, passed or otherwise put on their gi's and lined up, respectfully awaiting their Sensei. 

 

Sensei Ignety Ba with the new yellow belts, before the presentation

First Sensei Ignety Ba invited Noel Coly of Maison de la Gare to address the crowd. Then he himself spoke of the importance of service, referencing Douvris MA, Robbie, my Dad and I and Maison de la Gare. He spoke of perseverance, referencing the hard work of the talibes in pursuing their passion for karate.  I could only marvel at the echo of his words. The Douvris MA word of the monh this month is Service. Last month it was: Perserverance. Then Sensei Ignety Ba, assisted by Sensei Seck, called upon members of Maison de la Gare, Dad, Robbie and myself to present certificates of grading to each candidate in turn. Even those who did not pass received two stripes on their white belts and certificates, as Sensei was confident they would soon earn them. As the successful candidates were called up to receive their belts, the abundant joy and pride could not be contained. 

 

Boubacar Ndiaye being congratulated by Ignety Ba

 

Issa Kouyate presenting Robbie a certificate of honour on behalf 

of Master John Douvris

Then a surprise, I was called upon to receive a certificate of honour on behalf of Sensei Martina Couture, of Douvris MA Barrhaven. It was granted for her precious contribution to sport and the social good in Saint Louis and to the advancement of Maison de la Gare. Robbie was called up to receive a similar certificate of honour on behalf of Master John Douvris of Douvris Martial Arts. Then Dad received a certificate, then Robbie, and then so did I, accompanied by lasting applause. It was an overwhelmingly proud, emotional moment for all of us.

 

Sonia presenting belt and grading certificate to Issa Ba

As we all proudly gathered together for a photo opportunity, I was reminded again that when practicing karate, these boys are no longer talibes. They are martial artists.

Making the Most of Opportunity

 

Maison de la Gare morning karate class

Our first day in Saint Louis was full, despite Robbie and I sleeping in. Dad, of course was up early at work, never a moment to lose. We arrived at the centre to a karate class of about 25 kids in progress. The skill level of the karate kids was really impressive. Four boys in particular made a real impression on us with their apparent dedication and skill.  Watch two of them here:

Robbie pointed out that these children seem to view karate as a privilege, and many of them give it everything they have, striving to make it their own. They are respectful of their Sensei, waiting in the hot sun for the next instruction and then doing their best to perform correctly. They don't have parents or any reasonable structure in their lives. They are not fed or given any care when they are sick other than from Maison de la Gare, or what they can beg. They are forced to deliver quotas of money to their marabouts each day, proceeds of begging.  Maison de la Gare staff and volunteers provide the only positive roll modelling in their lives. There are so few staff, and thousands of talibe kids. But here they are, working hard, focused, sweating, probably hungry. Karate is exactly what these kids needed.

 

We met with the kids who would be travelling to Kaolack later that night for their first National Tournament to provide new gi's that they would wear in competition, donated by Douvris Martial Arts Barrhaven.Two of the talented kids in the morning class also indicated they wanted to join the dojo. Next week we'll gauge their comittment, and if they seem ready, two of the new gi's may be theirs. 

 

Some newly registered karate students at the dojo during my previous visit

Robbie and I joined the dojo talibes to train at Sor-karate Friday night. We left the centre just before the evening light meal was served. Unfortunately in order to arrive at the dojo in time ( it is about a 20 minute walk) the kids often forgo their meal from Maison de la Gare. Robbie and I both participated in the class with the advanced belts, so we were not able to take photos this time. We both felt privledged to train with this group, who give such an effort to their practice.  We learned new kumite routines and worked hard. Our conditionning thanks to Dourvis Martial Arts paid off and although the class was a challenge and we also worked hard, we were not exhausted. In fact, we were surprised when the sensei and talibes asked us if we were tired. After an intense warm up the class tends to get 1 or 2 minute pauses between sets of about 10 minutes for the boys to rest. Sweat was pouring off them. and they were tired. But of course they continued to give the practice all their focus and strength until the very end. It dawned on me that these kids were working through more calories than they had likely consumed that day! They had not eaten an evening meal. And they likely had not had much more than some bread or a bit of rice earlier either. And there would be nothing waiting for them later at the homes they do not have. I was hit hard by the realization of the things we take for granted.  Robbie and I also had missed dinner, but given our regular diet we could not have begun to imagine what the talibe boys were experiencing. After class we distributed all the granola bars we had brought for the trip. Later when Robbie and I met Dad for a late meal we found it difficult to eat much, thinking of our talibe karate friends.

Nutrition is important to all athletes. To malnourished kids consuming so many calories pursuing a passion that gives their lives meeaning, food should not be a rare luxury. Robbie and I determined to find a way to help these kids eat before karate practice on a regular basis. we'll keep you posted as we try to figure this out.

At the dojo I discussed the impending belt testing with Sensei Ingety Ba. He had been planning to test the round of white belts we signed up a year ago and some of the more exeptional white belts we signed up on my most recent visit 5 months ago (all thanks to sponsourships from Canada) in about a week. Thirteen Maison de la Gare white belts will be testing! He generously moved up the belt testing to Tuesday night, so we could have a presentation ceremony at Maison de la Gare Wednesday for the successful candidates while Robbie and I are still here. Douvris Martial Arts Barhaven and some Canadian karate students generously donated belts for us to bring to Senegal. If these kids are successful, we will use every one of the donated yellow belts! Upon being informed of testing, the white belts seemed nervous but excited. They worked a long time to become ready, and many still feel anxious.

Robbie offered to work with the kids who will be testing each day until Tuesday, helping them fine tune their katas and kunites and to prepare as well as possible. Saturday morning at the centre Robbie worked with three kids who will be testing, Souleymane, Issa Ba and Moussa Ba. Also, Elhaje practiced despite not being on the test list this time. He wants to take the opportunity to improve so he can make the list next time. The sun was hot, and the gi's were hanging up to dry after being washed, but the practice session was a success.

 

Today, Sunday, we met the kids at the centre again. Yaya also joined the group, and the kids worked hard with Robbie for two hours on getting the shodan, heidan and yodan versions of taykokyu shodan down and improving their form and timing.  Robbie and I have attended a Sor-karate belt testing before. Just only about two thirds of the candidates passed. Robbie is confident these 4 have what it takes to pass to yellow, even to Sensei Ignety's exacting standards.

With the dojo talibes who successfully test being rewarded with a belt ceremony, the younger karate kids who practice at the centre will surely be inspired. And, and with the four Sor-karate talibe kids competing at their first ever national tournament in Kaolack this weekend, Issa Kouyate, president and founder of Maison de la Gare has been saving some medals and suggested a tournament for the little ones. Let's Go! says Robbie. So beginning tomorrow, Robbie will work with the karate kids each day until the end of the week to prepare them for their own first ever tournament. Can't wait!

 

A flyer to collect gi's and sponsorships, pictured is Robbie with the first group 

of dojo talibes, now yellow, orange and green belts

The Road, a Senegalese Shakedown

Climbing the steps into the Dakar airport from the tarmack involved less of a rush than usual. Usually there is quite a bit of jostling for position as the lines to clear customs can be long and slow. But, many of the passengers on our flight remained on board, to continue to Conakry. So, the line was less crowded. And, a previous requirement for completed customs forms and Visas had been abolished. So, the lines moved quicker. service was polite and efficient, leaving us on time and feeling good.

 

we stopped along our route at this roadside coffee shop for a caffiene break

When visas had first been introduced as a requirement for travelling Canadians to Senegal, several years ago, we had the pleasure of being directed down long passages to a tented outdoor extention to the airport. We then enjoyed a very long wait while wonderng what we were waiting for. A sum of Euros was exchanged to pay for the Visas, then we were directed to booths for questionning. My questionning went fairly quickly, interupted only once or twice for my customs officer to take a personal phone call. however, my Dad's questionning was a bit different. Many breaks for personal phone calls were accompanied by regular breaks to get up and chat with colleagues, certainly not about anything relating to Dad's questionning. Was there sonething wrong with his computer? Did Dad appear as a suspicious character? The officer would answer none of our questions. After an extended period of time we guessed the customs officer was waiting for us to offer a bribe, So, Dad got up, went back to the sitting area and waited for a dfferent, less corrupt officer to become available. Eventually one did, and we were out in short order and on our way without any further money changing hands. If it were not for our committment to Maison de la Gare, this experience would have killed my desire to ever return to Senegal. I expect many travellers felt the same way and travel  diminished. Now there is happily no longer a visa requirement.

On a visit a year ago, while transporting an unusually large shipment of medications supplied for our humanitarian mission by Health Partners International, our bags were held at customs. Our manifest and signed and stamped authorization and letter  from the Senegalese embassy in Canada was ignored, despite having satisfied all customs requirements on many previous visits. We did not offer to solve the situation with a bribe. We tried logic, shame, tears, all to no avail. It later took Maison de la Gare many weeks and many trips back and forth to the airport and many different government departments, receiving stamped approval after stamped approval to eventually recuperate the medications for the intended purpose of providing free care to Senegalese children who would otherwise get none. Thanks to our experince with customs on this occasion, we will not likely be bringing medications again for Maison de la Gare any time soon.

  

bags full of medications for Maison de la Gare

On the way home a few trips ago, on the way from Saint Louis to Dakar, we were pulled over by a random police check-point. Unfortunately for the officer, all our driver's papers were in good order. So, he searched the car. Eventually the officer was rewarded with the discovery that our car was missing a triangle for use in roadside emergencies. This search required moving our baggage and potentially jeopardized us catching our flght.  If you could see the motley collection of ancient and overloaded vehicles on this road, many seemingly just held together with string, you would realize the ridiculousness of our situation.  This incident took so long, again, because our driver refused to offer a bribe. He ranted about how such corruption was killing  his country, and he refused to be part of it, regardless of the business consequences. Eventually, the owner of the transport company we had hired arrived on the scene to get involved, and we were again on our way.

Today on the way from Dakar to Saint Louis we were stopped at another random police checkpoint. Again, all our drivers papers were in order. But, the officer complained the baggage was piled too high in the trunk, obstructing a clear view. Again, if you could see the overloaded vehicles travelling this road...The officer had returned the registration, but held on to our driver's license. Our driver returned to the car for his wallet, and I saw the equivalent of about $2 change hands. We were once again on our way, but with a bad feeling about the country nudging its way in.

 

our driver and the police seen through the "obstructed" view

WHAT are the people making decisions in this country thinking?!?  How does this type of skakedown help anyone? Why does this type of behaviour not get SHUT DOWN? The corrupted are among those with jobs and salaries. I expect they are relativly few, but many stand by and let it happen. The victims either cannot  afford to be victimized, or they can, but the presence of corruption nudges them to take their business or tourist dollars elsewhere.  There are many local heroes, good people who know things don't have to  be this way. Our driver of last year taking a stand. Maison de la Gare willing to jump through ridiculous and unreasonable lengthy hoops to avoid  playing the game. Will the honest, resillient people of this place be enough to counter the self harm done by corrupt officials, and those many others who turn a blind eye, accepting it as just the way things are done, sighing as they say: "c'est l'Afrique..." Insha'Allah.

 

a typical sight on the Dakar- Saint Louis route

Not Just for Kicks: Life is Full of Meant-to-Be's

As Robbie and I walked through the door of my Dad's house today, our last stop before leaving together for the airport and then Senegal, Dad had an urgent question: "We just got a request from Maison de la Gare to send six of the dojo talibes to a karate tournament in Kaolack on Friday. Will you be able to raise the money?" 

Kaolack is in the south-central region of Senegal, near the border with The Gambia. The drive we will take to the Northern city of Saint Louis from Dakar tomorrow is about  four hours on a good, direct road. Kaolack from Saint Louis seems to be about double the distance. I wonder what the roads are like? This is a distance Robbie's international tournment team might travel to compete. Unlike on our team trips, I am certain the bus will not be air conditioned, and the ride will not be direct. Talibes, travelling with the tournament team to compete! Of course we'll find the money! as an afterthought, I asked..."how much?"

 

Since Robbie started the karate program at Maison de la Gare two years ago generous families from Douvris dojos in Ottawa have been sponsouring talibe boys who demonstrate committment and passion in the morning karate lassons offered at the centre. Amazingly, as more and more kids want to be and are ready to be registered at the Saint Louis dojo, Sor-Karate with Sensei Ignety Ba, more and more Douvris families have been ready to sponsor them to do so. The sponsorships include initiation, belt testing, the occasional seminar, and monthly fees. The kids attend karate classes every day but Sunday. But, as every Ottawa Douvris Tournament Team parent knows, tournaments are something more.  More money and more Awesome for the kids. 

 

Omar, Bouaro and Souleymane on the MDG tournament team

Tournaments test limits, push envelopes, and shine a spotlight on effort, failure and success. Tournaments are stressful events, in the very best way. Kids able and willing to work harder than they knew they could come to normalize that hard work. And, success and failure alike drive them to train even harder. They know because you are good does not mean you can't be better. And, if you don't win that does not mean you're not good. Successes are shared with teamates, and each win brings the karate family even closer, allowing each member to feel the glory. Or, the pain. How can confidence not thive? How can success in life possibly not follow? Again, of course we'll find the money!!!

Which is why it was just meant to be when Brigitte Pellerin, a third degree black belt and WKC Team Canada member and World Champion, from our dojo, Douvris Martial Arts made an astonishing offer only yesterday. Brigitte has written a book, with her young daughter, Catherine, also a Team Canada member, Not Just for Kicks, which describes the phoenonenon of being part of a karate tournament team and competing at the World Championships. Brigitte is generously donating part of the proceeds of her book to support the karate program at Maison de la Gare. The very day after learning of this good news, I learned of the opportunity for the Maison de la Gare karate kids to lanch their own dreams of competing. Brigitte had reminded me of the awesome potential for character development and self awakening that competing provides young people (and anyone) and offers a means of contributing to financing at just the perfect moment. To read Brigitte's own blog about her book and her support of the talibe and to purchase her book, please follow this link:

http://www.brigittepellerin.com/books/we-can-all-do-our-bit-for-these-eager-karate-students/ 

  

Robbie Hughes on the podium (right) at WKC World Championships