The Road, a Senegalese Shakedown

Climbing the steps into the Dakar airport from the tarmack involved less of a rush than usual. Usually there is quite a bit of jostling for position as the lines to clear customs can be long and slow. But, many of the passengers on our flight remained on board, to continue to Conakry. So, the line was less crowded. And, a previous requirement for completed customs forms and Visas had been abolished. So, the lines moved quicker. service was polite and efficient, leaving us on time and feeling good.

 

we stopped along our route at this roadside coffee shop for a caffiene break

When visas had first been introduced as a requirement for travelling Canadians to Senegal, several years ago, we had the pleasure of being directed down long passages to a tented outdoor extention to the airport. We then enjoyed a very long wait while wonderng what we were waiting for. A sum of Euros was exchanged to pay for the Visas, then we were directed to booths for questionning. My questionning went fairly quickly, interupted only once or twice for my customs officer to take a personal phone call. however, my Dad's questionning was a bit different. Many breaks for personal phone calls were accompanied by regular breaks to get up and chat with colleagues, certainly not about anything relating to Dad's questionning. Was there sonething wrong with his computer? Did Dad appear as a suspicious character? The officer would answer none of our questions. After an extended period of time we guessed the customs officer was waiting for us to offer a bribe, So, Dad got up, went back to the sitting area and waited for a dfferent, less corrupt officer to become available. Eventually one did, and we were out in short order and on our way without any further money changing hands. If it were not for our committment to Maison de la Gare, this experience would have killed my desire to ever return to Senegal. I expect many travellers felt the same way and travel  diminished. Now there is happily no longer a visa requirement.

On a visit a year ago, while transporting an unusually large shipment of medications supplied for our humanitarian mission by Health Partners International, our bags were held at customs. Our manifest and signed and stamped authorization and letter  from the Senegalese embassy in Canada was ignored, despite having satisfied all customs requirements on many previous visits. We did not offer to solve the situation with a bribe. We tried logic, shame, tears, all to no avail. It later took Maison de la Gare many weeks and many trips back and forth to the airport and many different government departments, receiving stamped approval after stamped approval to eventually recuperate the medications for the intended purpose of providing free care to Senegalese children who would otherwise get none. Thanks to our experince with customs on this occasion, we will not likely be bringing medications again for Maison de la Gare any time soon.

  

bags full of medications for Maison de la Gare

On the way home a few trips ago, on the way from Saint Louis to Dakar, we were pulled over by a random police check-point. Unfortunately for the officer, all our driver's papers were in good order. So, he searched the car. Eventually the officer was rewarded with the discovery that our car was missing a triangle for use in roadside emergencies. This search required moving our baggage and potentially jeopardized us catching our flght.  If you could see the motley collection of ancient and overloaded vehicles on this road, many seemingly just held together with string, you would realize the ridiculousness of our situation.  This incident took so long, again, because our driver refused to offer a bribe. He ranted about how such corruption was killing  his country, and he refused to be part of it, regardless of the business consequences. Eventually, the owner of the transport company we had hired arrived on the scene to get involved, and we were again on our way.

Today on the way from Dakar to Saint Louis we were stopped at another random police checkpoint. Again, all our drivers papers were in order. But, the officer complained the baggage was piled too high in the trunk, obstructing a clear view. Again, if you could see the overloaded vehicles travelling this road...The officer had returned the registration, but held on to our driver's license. Our driver returned to the car for his wallet, and I saw the equivalent of about $2 change hands. We were once again on our way, but with a bad feeling about the country nudging its way in.

 

our driver and the police seen through the "obstructed" view

WHAT are the people making decisions in this country thinking?!?  How does this type of skakedown help anyone? Why does this type of behaviour not get SHUT DOWN? The corrupted are among those with jobs and salaries. I expect they are relativly few, but many stand by and let it happen. The victims either cannot  afford to be victimized, or they can, but the presence of corruption nudges them to take their business or tourist dollars elsewhere.  There are many local heroes, good people who know things don't have to  be this way. Our driver of last year taking a stand. Maison de la Gare willing to jump through ridiculous and unreasonable lengthy hoops to avoid  playing the game. Will the honest, resillient people of this place be enough to counter the self harm done by corrupt officials, and those many others who turn a blind eye, accepting it as just the way things are done, sighing as they say: "c'est l'Afrique..." Insha'Allah.

 

a typical sight on the Dakar- Saint Louis route