Goodbye for Now, but Not for Long, Insha'Allah

  

 

It is always so difficult to leave Maison de la Gare. Yes, progress has been made, supplies were delivered, issues were resolved, children have been registered in school, 8 more kids are registered at the dojo, karate seems locked-down and a future karate volunteer trip is fleshed-out, the medical report was completed, articles were written. Dad has slogged through his own long list of objectives as well - sleep is so over-rated, after all. But, despite the satisfaction of accomplishment, It tears at my heart to walk down the alley away from the centre. I can never be sure if I will see these boys again. 

 

 

The lives the talibes lead are so unpredictable. They have so little control over their own destinies and are at the mercy of the whims of their marabouts. Kids who have been attending classes at Maison de la Gare, learning to read and write, who feel secure in knowing the staff truly care about and watch over them, could disappear without warning. Marabouts can move an entire daara of kids to a remote location to work their fields as a convenient source of slave labour. Or, children could be arbitrarily barred from Maison de la Gare if a favour for a marabout's personal gain was asked of the center but refused. Or, a child suffering intolerable abuse at his daara could silently vanish and become a runaway, alone and vulnerable on the streets. On my last visit I was horrified to learn a group of 12 children from one daara who had passionately participated in the karate program were barred from returning to the centre by their marabout. The marabout had attacked one boy to punish him for some "transgression"  (an unfortunately common occurrence) and the boy had defended himself with the skill of a martial artist. Only by squashing the hope and the budding karate talent of these boys did the marabout feel able to keep them under his boot.

 

On this visit I was distressed to discover one of my dear teenage talibe friends is seriously considering leaving Senegal to try to make his way across the desert to Libya, and then onto a migrant boat, and then to Europe in search of a better future. He has heard it is possible to get an education in Europe. He has identity papers back in The Gambia, so he could attend high school there. But, he has an intolerable family situation at home to which he cannot bear to return. We had many discussions about the terrors and dangers and extortion of illegal migration to Europe. We also talked long and hard about the discrimination and challenges that await at the other end if the journey were successful. I think, I hope he has changed his mind. Education is his goal. Issa Kouyate could help him find a way to return then get by in The Gambia while continuing his education. If he can finish high school with honours ( which I have no doubt this very intelligent, ambitious boy could do), then a world of possibility could lie at his feet. I hope I get the chance to try to find my friend a scholarship to attend university some day.

Another dear friend my son Robbie's age was back in Saint Louis in search of work. Amadou Diao had previously been sent back by Maison de la Gare to his home in the Casamence to continue with his formal education. But, apparently he has no papers - a ridiculously common situation in Senegal when papers must be obtained for a fee within days of birth, regardless of the remoteness of one's birthplace - and thus he has very little chance of being registered in the public school system without resorting to bribery. This very intelligent boy had given up on school. But, after many hours of our discussions about the importance of eduction as the key to nearly everything, Amadou Diao also changed his mind. This Monday, with support from Maison de la Gare, he got on a bus back to his home town, school fees in hand and schoolbag on his back, to try to begin again with the new school  year this Wednesday. I cannot help but worry for my young friend, at this moment alone on a journey of possibly days, headed to an unknown future with little more than his school fees in his pocket and hope in his heart. I cannot help but imagine my own 14 year old on such a journey, alone. If Amadou Diao is successful, I may never see him again. But, it is certain I will never forget him.

 

Another friend, a talibe with amazing passion and skill for karate, Ismaila, had been sent off to help build a house for his marabout last year. Karate, which Ismaila lived for, was stopped in its tracks. But, I was delighted to learn Ismaila will soon be back to Saint Louis. The word is around that he is on his way. I have no doubt he will be back at Maison de la Gare and back at the dojo as soon as he returns. I anxiously await my next chance to see Ismaila again, back on his way to earning his blue belt in karate.

 

Many other talibe faces continue to reappear year after year. They show up for games, they can be found in the library, or arrive just in time for a meal, they wander into class, or limp into the health climic. They lounge in the shade of the garden, and watch movies in the computer room. Some have fallen in love with karate. As long as they continue to visit Maison de la Gare, these boys will know that someone cares for them. And, hope will remain alive.

 

 

As my flight leaves Dakar behind and the ocean passes underneath I can still hear the echo of the beautiful voices calling to me: "Sonia", "Hey! le Canada!", "Sonia-Karate", "Robbie?", "Rowan?". I hang onto the promise offered by Mamadou taking my left hand with his left instead of the usual right, signifying we shall meet again, God willing. I  will be back, insha'Allah.

 

Souleymane - A Child at Heart Becomes a Leader of Children

 

During this visit to Senegal I have been lucky to spend much time with Souleymane. He has taught karate classes with me at the centre. He has helped me orient more talibes into the Maison de la Gare karate program. We have played Monopoly Deal and spent time just hanging out. This week my Facebook account was disabled without cause or warning. Facebook has been an important means of communication while I am in Africa - a link to home as well as to Senegalese friends. Souleymane's always cheerful attitude and positive and playful disposition has helped remind me that it is good to just be present, and for a few days not to worry about my links to the outside world.The following history about Souleymane is from an article I wrote to be published on the Maison de la Gare Global Giving web page, and on Maison de la Gare's own web site, www.mdgsl.com later this year. Enjoy...

 

 

Souleymane first arrived at Maison de la Gare in 2010 when he was about 14 years old.  After receiving help from Maison de la Gare when he was sick, he became a familiar figure at the centre. It soon became apparent that Souleymane, sent from his home in The Gambia to a marabout and forced to beg for quotas of money at an early age, had been cheated of his childhood. At Maison de la Gare he made up for lost time. As a teenager, he learned to play, And, he discovered education. Now, as an older talibe in transition with responsibilities at the centre, and freed from his marabout, Souleymane is helping other talibes find their ways to better lives.

Souleymane had initially heard about the centre by word of mouth from other talibes. He would appear from time to time for food and respite from his daily begging. He was also curious about the classes. Then, in 2011 Souleymane began to have trouble in his daara. He became sick and his marabout failed to provide any care. Maison de la Gare took responsibility for his healthcare and Souleymane was hospitalized until he was well again. He was required to submit 600 CFA of begging proceeds  (about $US1) every day to his marabout. Even when he was in hospital, his daily quota accumulated. Maison de la Gare intervened to assist Souleymane through these troubles.

Once Souleymane's health was restored, he began to attend classes at Maison de la Gare on a regular basis. It was his hope to be able to go to school some day.

 

Even as a teenager, Souleymane had the heart of a child. At a series of celebrations organized for talibes at the centre, Souleymane spent hours colouring and drawing, alongside younger children half his age.  As I observed how this teenager was captivated by drawing in a colouring book, it broke my heart to realize this could only mean Souleymane was experiencing childhood for the first time. He would spend as much time as possible participating in every game, always with the younger 

 

kids. He loved the sack races, and learning to skip rope. The opportunity to play the djembe drums also captured his imagination. Souleymane loves a good joke and he is always quick to tease. Wherever there is fun, to this day Souleymane is sure to be on the scene. 

 

In 2015 when my son, then 13 year old Robbie, a karate black belt, arrived from Canada to help begin a karate program at Maison de la Gare, Souleymane was interested right away. Robbie and Souleymane became close friends. Robbie taught him to love karate, and Souleymane taught Robbie to play marbles and to make a perfect pot of attaya. 

 

 

Souleymane continued to study karate at the centre, and at the dojo Sor-karate. As his study of the sport progressed, his discipline and sense of responsibility increased. There was a time when Souleymane may have been as likely to be found napping behind a market stall, as to be at class on time. 

 

But now, the discipline of karate and the pride in responsibility seem to have had a transformative effect.  Souleymane leads the warm up for the karate class at the centre each week, and trains at the dojo most nights. He helps orient the newly registered "dojo talibes" into the karate program, ensuring they are on time. And, he helps the kids just starting karate to find a gi that fits. He now also competes in kata and combat for his dojo. Souleymane has found passion and leadership in karate.

 

As Souleymane transitions out of the talibe life, he continues to work with Maison de la Gare, not only leading karate classes, but working to support the hygiene and health care project. Most days he leads the talibes in brushing their teeth. And he assists with many other projects. Souleymane also leads a group of four other talibes in cultivating a garden plot of okra at Maison de la Gare's  cultivation lands. This week he proudly harvested the first crop ever. Meanwhile, Souleymane still yearns for an education, attending Maison de la Gare classes faithfully. And if fun is afoot, Souleymane will surely not be far away.

 

Maison de la Gare in Full Swing

A week has passed since I left Canada. Yet, it seems there is still so much to do: A report to complete on the medications we brought on our last visit (due to temporary confiscation by local customs officials the medications arrived after my departure), photos to take of the kids responsible for tending the garden plot at Bango, organizing a karate volunteer group trip for next year, a few more articles to write for the Global Giving and Maison de la Gare websites, and a meeting with Master Ignate Ba about advancing the karate program. This list pales compared to my father's own to-do list of reorganizing budgets and bank accounts, updating the accounting,  preparing and organizing the board meeting, and working with MDG staff to ensure the work being done relates properly to the budget so that grants can be renewed and objectives fulfilled.

 

At the centre, the list of activities for the talibes to enjoy and benefit from continues to expand. Since the month of May, Lala Sene, a member of the female Senegalese National soccer team has been volunteering with the talibes every Thursday afternoon - a great supplement to the regular tournaments. She organizes soccer games and coaches them to their full potential. Thank goodness my sister Karen sent a new soccer ball with me for the talibes. They have lost the others over the wall - the price to pay for over enthusiastic kicking.

 

The karate program is strong and growing, only limited by the number of available uniforms and dojo registration sponsorships. Young kids and older teenagers alike present themselves asking for karate. But, it is the teenagers who seem to feel the passion and the possibility. For them, registration at the dojo levels any discrimination they may experience in their day to day lives. Here, only skill, earned by perseverance and discipline matter. Every person who puts on a Gi has the same opportunity in the dojo. After three days of participating in the morning karate classes, and registering 8 more kids at the dojo, I am becoming known on the streets of Saint Louis as Sonia-karate. But I know, they would still rather have Robbie training with them.

 

The classes were very full this week. Abdou Soumare works with the youngest kids every morning, leading educational games, showing educational videos, and reading with the kids. He also had an overflowing class in the afternoon. Aida's class of older kids was also full of students who may imagine education could be a key to better times. 

 

 

Arouna is getting help from a past professor who agreed to intervene with authorities to help him obtain identification papers. If all goes according to plan, he will begin high school next week! This professor is prepared to help another 10 MDG talibes without papers find places in the public school system as well. For those fortunates the dream of education is a step closer now.

We have learned there will be a ronde de nuit Sunday night. Will we join them late at night, in search of runaway talibes living on the street? Maybe it will depend on how far we have worked through our lists. I have done this ronde de nuit a few times. It is never easy to come face to face wth the the reality of such young kids alone and vulnerable,  knowing they feel safer exposed to the dangers of the streets than in their daaras. Thank God Maison de la Gare, at least, is there for them. The staff at our Dortoir d'Urgence will be ready and waiting to receive the runaways and, eventually, hopefully, escort them home.

 

I have tried to spend as much time as possible with the kids. This is what I love to do most when I am here, and what I know my Dad longs also to do, if only he ever had enough time.  After karate, and soccer, as kids lounge in the shade of the garden mid-day, I pull out the Monopoly Deal cards (also thanks to Karen). Or, we discuss the importance of education and the challenges of being talibes. Or, religion and spirituality. Or, why people in the world choose to do right and wrong. Or, how they will try to improve Senegal when they are older. Or, we just listen to music. One thing these kids don't do is really complain, other than the occasional admittance "oui, c'est dur" . Even after another night of heavy thunderstorms and wind, they comment on the beautiful morning sun, not on the deluge that stole their sleep the night before. My friend Tijan noted "morning is a wonderful blessing, either sunny 

 

or stormy. It stands for hope...giving us another start of what we call life". For the talibes, the storm is just a normal part of life, to be accepted along with forced begging and life in the daaras. But, the morning and new day are a gift from God, to be appreciated, something for which to be thankful. And, so is Maison de la Gare.