Talibes Discover their own History - A tour of Saint Louis

Talibes, volunteers and teacher gather in a caleche

Maison de la Gare is a place where talibe children have the opportunity to learn, as well as to just enjoy being children, while being appreciated as the unique individuals they are, with the inherent right to both. So, it did not seem to be too crazy an idea to invite the children to tour their own city by caleche, as tourists do.

The excursion for the talibes was at once an outing to relax far from their daily trials of forced begging, and spend time experiencing a tour and seeing local historical sights. And, these talibes learned about the history and heritage of the city in which they live, in many cases for the first time.

Initially it was planned that 16 talibes, their Maison de la Gare teacher, Bouri MBodj, and we volunteers would participate. When our group met at Maison de la Gare to gather for the walk to the tour departure point, the group of interested talibes had become 26. A few more Maison de la Gare talibes joined the group as we walked and by the time we prepared to board the horse drawn caleche to begin the tour, our group had swelled to 35. As the tour progressed two more stragglers  hopped on enroute. Our four caleche had been ordered for 23 people. But, 35 squeezed happily into the carts, with the little ones balancing on the laps of adults and teenagers. Only the hard working horses were unhappy with the situation.

As we set out on our journey, behaving like tourists, bystanders gaped in astonishment as they realized it was mainly talibes on board, some barefoot and filthy, but with beaming smiles, emanating pride and happiness. Many held our hands, enjoying moments of affection, as might a parent and child on a family outing.

We are receiving a history lesson of the local area

At each point of interest the group disembarked for a history lesson. The information was repeated in French as well as Wolof by our thoughtful guide, to ensure the talibe understood. 

Most of the talibe had never crossed the bridge to the Oceanside Langue de Barbarie, a few had never before ventured even on to the island of Saint Louis, remaining forever in their familiar begging grounds of Sor on the mainland, a 500 meter footbridge away. At one historical stop, meat pastries were being fried and offered for sale at a roadside stand. The children were delighted to be treated to a pastry each for dinner. When I prepared to pay for the treats, one of the older boys waved me aside and insisted he make the payment with his own hard earned cash. His own gift in thanks and recognition of this important event for the talibes. Such generosity from one who has so little.

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This street vendor scrambled as fast as possible to make dozens of meat pastries for the talibes

As a description was offered of the riverside colonial warehouse that in past centuries housed the trade goods of ivory, rubber, gold, and slaves, one child asked: "what is slave?"? Sober and astonished silence descended as the guide explained, as gently as possible, the history of the transatlantic slave trade in Senegal. Most of these kids had never heard of slavery, could not absorb even the concept of the barbarism that dominated four centuries of their own history. Watching these children the United Nations defines as modern day slaves try to accept such historical horrors, I was struck by how little had, in fact, changed from those difficult times for these beautiful talibe boys.

Learning about the transatlantic slave trade for the first time takes its toll

As the tour progressed, a sense of happiness gradually settled back over the group, but some thoughtful expressions remained in place.

This excursion was valuable for the talibes. A Maison de la Gare staff member later suggested to me it was equally valuable for opening the eyes and minds of the people of Saint Louis, who previously could not have conceived of talibes being worthy of such treatment. One more door opens...

A view from the caleche on the bridge to la Langue de Barbarie