Since our last visit to Saint Louis much has changed at the Maison de la Gare Centre. But the feeling as I stepped through the gate this morning has not: tranquility, hope, refuge, love.
A circle of children were playing under the shade of the coconut trees. A few more were washing their clothes in the new hygiene area. Yet several more were waiting for the infirmary doors to open. A stray cat
who has adopted the centre wandered by, stopping to stretch in front of the classrooms. Three little barefoot boys, empty begging bowls in hand, meandered in then ran to join their friends on the clean, warm, welcoming sand- begging bowls forgotten for now. All this felt like coming home.
And yet, the place is transformed. A new watcher at the door recorded our names. The old, leaking offices and library are replaced by a new, two story complex with a balcony overlooking The Centre, including administrative offices, the microfinance centre, a welcome reception area where Noel greets all the talibé who enter and records their names and daaras, an impressive conference room, and an office for Issa. The toilets and wash area have moved over to the other side of the property, now shaded by the coconut trees and a towering date palm. The classrooms fave been refurbished. A new library is being painted and furnished. An extension to the dortoir d’urgence has been built - a new live-in school for 20 talibés who are joined by eight girls who are day students. This new school, Yaakar, is a pilot project to demonstrate to marabouts, to the government, to Saint Louisiens, to the world, and to talibés themselves, that talibés have the same potential to learn and thrive as any other children, so long as they are respected, cared for, have access to education, and the support of a community who care about them.
Kalidou spotted me, rushing over with a warm greeting and an embrace. Kalidou was once a talibé himself. Now he is a teacher, a big brother, and an inspiration to the talibés that they need not remain trapped in this life indefinitely. Elhage (“Americain”) arrived at the infirmary and began treating the steady steam of patients presenting themselves for care.
Dad and I were invited to a nearby soccer pitch to watch the game organized for the talibés by Lala. Four teams from four different daaras. Two matches, forty minutes each. No shoes or boots, some of the boys wore socks for a little protection. No one held back- effort was 100% as was the glory for the winning teams. But I could tell all the children felt like they had won. Lala is so much more than a Maison de la Gare sports animator. She is a coach, a confident, a big sister - family to these boys who have been separated from their own.
We returned to the centre for a meeting with the Leadership team. The flow of children to The Centre soon
accelerated. Classes were in session. Then, Noel began to organize games- much needed play so kids could just be kids and leave the reality of the street behind for a time. It was glorious: Joy, camaraderie, mutual support, belonging, fun. Finally, the meal was prepared. As the last light of the day began to dim, The boys lined up, and Rowan handed each child their dinner before they passed out of the gates and into the night, back to something so much less than this.
Issa Kouyaté’s long nurtured vision for this wonderful place is truly manifesting. it thus feels even more cruel that we have lost the United Nations funding, slashed with little warning after the United States government cancelled their financial contributions. This Centre for the talibé is an oasis to thousands of children living a life of neglect and abuse. Having experienced the wonder of this place anew today, we all feel a fresh commitment to re-double our efforts to adapt, find new funding sources, and keep this bright light in a dark world shining.
My Dad with the new Yaakar students
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