Welcome Home to Maison de la Gare

Maison de la Gare

With each kilometer that passed on the road from Dakar to Saint Louis we settled more into the rhythm of this place. The desperate-to-earn-a-living roadside merchants swarming cars, hoping to sell sunglasses, phone credit, Kleenex, peanuts, t-shirts, toys, cookies, and pots and pans fell behind as we drove out of the city. They were replaced by stalls lining the roads, selling furniture, baskets, and household supplies, as we passed through the suburbs. Then speeding on surprisingly good roads through the African landscape of baobab forests and desert scrub populated by goats, donkeys, zebu, and the occasional person, each community we passed through was dedicated to selling a single product. One town offered meat. Aging carcasses lined the highway, displayed for sale. Another town seemed to be the car repair centre for the entire country. Many others sold melons. Pile after pile of watermelons lined the road, tended, it seemed, by all the females of the community. Who buys these thousands upon thousands of melons, we wonder. I have never witnessed more than one or two to change hands in commerce. In a different season it will be clementines. Or, pain de seinge.

Le Pont Faidherbe

After about four hours of driving, as salt began to mix with the sandy, heavy air, we spotted the palms of la Langue de Barbarie across the Senegal River. Then the half kilometer long Pont Faidherbe led us to the Island of Saint Louis once more.

After just enough time to unpack some gifts and organize the books for the library and the donated karate supplies that a made this trip with us, we were off to Maison de la Gare.

A joking group of talibes just being kids

As soon as we arrived at the alley leading to the Centre, I heard my name being called by about six familiar faces. Little, barefoot, filthy, delightful boys. Talibes. They each rushed forward for a proper hand clasp greeting.  Several repeated my name, wanting to ensure I knew that they know me. Their welcoming smiles grew bigger when i began to pass out candy and the group of six instantly, miraculously became a clamouring horde of twenty. When will I learn? Some of the original six shook their heads at me knowingly.

Upon entering the sanctuary of Maison de la Gare, all we saw were smiles and all we felt was welcome. Long time, once talibe friends, now staff of Maison de la Gare greeted us first with shy smiles and then warm embraces. Then a Maison de la Gare teacher, the mother of my Godchild approached and updated me on Mouhamed's progress. Kindergarten and a loving family - what all these talibe boys deserve and will never have.

The progress at the centre was encouraging. Mamadou has clearly been busy. The coconut trees have finally taken hold, no longer in danger of succumbing to stray soccer balls or wrestling children. The papayas have finally survived the season of wind/sandstorms to stand tall and bear fruit. The children attended class, played games, washed clothes, and read in the library. And, karate continues. Soulaymane proudly announced his imminent orange belt grading and the beginning of sparring competition. Robbie

Teacher, Bouri M'Bodj with talibe students

can't wait to start drilling him. And, Ismaila, who appeared at Maison de la Gare because of the karate has won a silver medal in competition! Maison de la Gare proudly safeguards his medal, a triumph for all the talibes. Samba, who had amazing potential and natural karate form has stopped practicing karate. I hope to uncover the reason why. But, he promised Robbie he will begin again tomorrow.

After a long and emotionally charged day, our hearts are full but our eyes are heavy. Back to the comfort of Maison Rose to unpack, organize the rest of our supplies, and check in with loved ones back home on-line. As I tuck in under my mosquito net, with family at my side and people watching out for me nearby, I cannot help but worry about where the talibes are sleeping tonight.

Maison Rose, an oasis of comfort in Saint Louis to us as Maison de la Gare is to talibes